As long as the tank is braced correctly with no deflection, it is the height that determines the thickness. I'd use 12mm plate glass all day long at 30" of height. What's that - 1/2" in that backwards measurement you guys still use across the pond?
Plywood/Glass build question
- Thread starter Sarmo
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As long as the tank is braced correctly with no deflection, it is the height that determines the thickness. I'd use 12mm plate glass all day long at 30" of height. What's that - 1/2" in that backwards measurement you guys still use across the pond?
they don't teach much the metric stuff over here lol. Know it but don't use it enough to know how thick 12mm is lol
that's what I'm thinking about.... what does the vertical seam look like where glass meets plywood? how is it reinforced and sealed?
awesome tank!
The issue at hand when discussing glass and safety factor is water depth and overall run or length of the tank. The length of the tank is what allows the deflection. The long the tank the more is can possibly deflect. So when we as DIY hobbyists look at the issue we should always consider deflection first then impact. The SF rating calculators cannot calculate bracing or impact thus we must use our best judgement and draw from the experience of the community. I like to point at the 55 gallon tank as a prime example for this factor alone.
If you look at the top you will see the cross brace. Standard 55's are 48 inches long, 21 inches high. We don't care about the depth at this point. They build these out of quarter inch glass. Which is why i felt more than safe using that glass with a cross brace and a full plywood frame.
If you look at the top you will see the cross brace. Standard 55's are 48 inches long, 21 inches high. We don't care about the depth at this point. They build these out of quarter inch glass. Which is why i felt more than safe using that glass with a cross brace and a full plywood frame.
agreed, I think the cross brace adds a lot to protect from bowing of the glass. Euro bracing can also accomplish this and maintain consistent pressure along the length of the glass face.
I am not thinking of a rimless look, although those are really cool. I think the coolest coral tank I ever saw was a 4 foot square that was 18 inches deep in a rimless tank.
i don't know if i gave the dimensions I'm thinking of but it's 72 x 48 x 30".
I am not thinking of a rimless look, although those are really cool. I think the coolest coral tank I ever saw was a 4 foot square that was 18 inches deep in a rimless tank.
i don't know if i gave the dimensions I'm thinking of but it's 72 x 48 x 30".
I dunno what you mean by reinforced. the glass sits on a ledge inside tank and i silicone the to pieces of glass together at the corner. Wood frame all way around the glass is that what you want to know about reinforcing?
if it has a wood frame then yes, you are protecting the glass with framing. You may want to consider other options as well for your own peace of mind. A center cross brace, euro-bracing, etc. But in doing so you allow yourself to use thinner glass which is less expensive. It is all a matter of what you feel comfortable with. In general from my experience on here with those you have used my calculator to design their aquariums most people settle around 2.2 in SF. YMMV We love drawings done in paint or sketchup here and detail makes it a lot easier for us to give feedback.
got two sets of braces across top of tank ;-) 2x4s to that front not going anywhere lol. Front frame around window is alos 1.5 thick two pieces of 3/4 ply laminated together.
Hi guys. I build my own 1400 plus aqurium from plywood, 19 mm hardened glas and fiberglass it inside. It's running now for 6 months without leakage. I'm very pleased with it.
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