Plywood Tank Variation, Ballsy or foolhardy?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

cvermeulen

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Jun 4, 2007
1,876
3
36
Los Osos, CA
I know a LOT of people, particularly with the 'overdo it to be sure' mentality that a lot of us share, will not be comfortable with this idea, but I wanted to throw it out there for discussion, because I think it would be really, really slick.

Anyway, most people building plywood tanks, make a front frame out of plywood or dimensional lumber, and then coat the tank, and then stick the glass to the inside of the frame so the water pressure holds it in place. This provides a lot of peace of mind, because there's a physical barrier between the glass and the outside air, so it aint going anywhere unless it breaks. It also kind of sucks though, because you have this ledge all the way around your window, and the glass is inset from the front of the aquarium by however thick your frame is (1.5" if you use framing lumber to build the front frame.) A lot of tanks look good this way, but for the next tank I build I really have been trying to find a way to minimize this clunkiness, and make as much of the front of the tank flush, flat, and glass, as possible.

So... why not glue the glass to the outside? Inset just far enough into the frame to be flush. So, you'd be relying on the silicone entirely to hold the glass in place. Now, this souds sketch, but this is how most commercial tanks are made. Silicone is quite strong, much stronger than required to hold the water in. The only trick would be getting the right adhesive to bond to the fiberglass or steel, or whatever you made your front frame out of.

Anyone done this or seen it? Thoughts?
 
It depends on the size of the tank and how thick the glass is. I've never seen it done the way you are proposing though.
 
I'm thinking pretty damn big. I thought of this while I was cleaning up a dissassembled 135gal tank. The large panes are 2 feet by 6 feet. I was considering a 30" tall tank, with the windows nearer the top than the bottom (bottom is substrate anyway), 12 feet long, and 4 feet front to back. Again though, the size of the tank shouldn't matter if you do the math right. a 1" lip with a solid glue joint all the way around the window should be good for a ridiculous amount of strength.
 
For Example, a 6 foot window with a 1" wide bead all the way around, presuming 100psi of bond strength, would be able to support over 19000lbs of total force. That would be 11psi across the whole window. That's somewhere around 10-20x the average pressure on a 2 foot window (I can't recall the exact number, it's between .5 and 1 psi.)

DOW 832 claims a material strength of 4-500psi. So again I guess the real trick is making sure you can bond securely to the fiberglass, and also making sure that the fiberglass is bonded securely to the wood substrate. Either that or embedding a stainless steel frame in the wood tank to glue the windows to or something.

Even airplanes are held together with glue ;) it's just all about figuring out how to do it properly!
 
zennzzo;2401811; said:
If you can find an adhesive, that can fit that bill let me know...
I'll be using it to mount mine, from the inside...:D

JohnPTC used Dow 832. I just used some of the same to rebuild a leaking 120gal. It's good stuff! :headbang2
 
I don't know. Sounds a bit risky with that much water.
 
cichlid savage;2401922; said:
I don't know. Sounds a bit risky with that much water.

Well everything is a risk/benefit exercise ya know? ;) I kinda figured this idea would give most ppl the heebie jeebies, but I'm entertaining it for a while. I was just back out there cleaning the glass panels some more, and they are quite scratched, so I don't think I would design a monster around them just yet, unless I can get the glass shop to polish out the worst of the damage. The reason I started thinking of this is the panels have ground and polished edges, which would make it a waste to hide them.
 
here is a thought for you, why not try and have a thick piece of wood around the frame and place a groove in the wood slightly larger the thickness of the glass and have the glass slip inside that groove and silicone it in place. I would suggest using a 2x4 front frame, then bolting that front frame back to the back portions of the tank.
 
dr_sudz;2402051; said:
here is a thought for you, why not try and have a thick piece of wood around the frame and place a groove in the wood slightly larger the thickness of the glass and have the glass slip inside that groove and silicone it in place. I would suggest using a 2x4 front frame, then bolting that front frame back to the back portions of the tank.


Exactly what I was thinking. Just put a notch in the side/bottom boards and then slide the glass into the notches.
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com