pond filter for fish tanks
- Thread starter njackson
- Start date
I run a pond filter on my tank.
al the eheim pro 3 thermo broke down. (3 of them) 2 shortcircuit, and 1 had stray foltage and almost killed my fish)
besides that they could not keep up with te waste.
the filter I run now is an oase biotec screenmatic
this filter has a automated screen wich cleans it's self every 30 minutes.
(works great)
al the eheim pro 3 thermo broke down. (3 of them) 2 shortcircuit, and 1 had stray foltage and almost killed my fish)
besides that they could not keep up with te waste.
the filter I run now is an oase biotec screenmatic
this filter has a automated screen wich cleans it's self every 30 minutes.
(works great)
Laguana and Oase are the way to go in pond filters.
The only problem is they are expensive and you need to buy a water pump as the filters don't come with them.
Sumps are great and much cheaper the setup from scratch.
Stay clear of cheap pond filters as servicing (cleaning) and quality can be issues.
The only problem is they are expensive and you need to buy a water pump as the filters don't come with them.
Sumps are great and much cheaper the setup from scratch.
Stay clear of cheap pond filters as servicing (cleaning) and quality can be issues.
I used a Bio Force 2000 pond filter to filter tanks for 5 years before selling it to a friend to put on his outdoor pond
The Bioforce 2000 is a sealed filter, just like a canister, and can be placed below the tank. Placing the pump on the return line, as opposed to the intake line, greatly reduced the pressure within the filter and therefore greatly reduces the likelihood of it leaking.
BioForce 2000 costs around $200 w/ media holds about 5 gallons of water/media (much more than an FX5) and can be used with up to an 1800 gph pump (Ive personally used 1200, 1800 & 2400 gph pump, 2400 had problems, 1800 worked long term with no problems).
Cleaning the filter is a bit of a pain, but quick disconnect valves can be put in the lines just like on a canister. Then the only hard part is moving the larger canister to the area you wish to clean it and the reality is, a larger filter has benefits and the only way to get those benefits is to deal with a larger filter at cleaning time. Now keep in mind, its about the same size/weight as a 5 gallon bucket, which are all accustom to moving around
My BioForce 2000 w/ pump, tubes, etc cost me right at $300... The going rate on an FX5 is right at $300... My BF moves twice as much water as the FX5 and has about 1.5 times the media volume
Although I have never owned/used one I see absolutely no reason why a pond filter with a backwash feature cannot be used on an aquarium. You would simply connect a hose to the backwash line and backwash it into a bucket, or attach a long hose which discharges into the lawn/garden. I have not owned/used one personally but I have read up on them after having ample personal experience using a pond filter.
As a final note, be cautious who you take advice from. I suggest you only listen to people with first hand personal experience on topics like this. Speculative advice can lead you off course very quickly. For example, my BF 2000 was connected to the tank just like a canister. The tank was not drilled nor would the tank being drilled have offered the filter any benefits.
I do not know of any pond filters that have an internal pump. One major benefit of them not having an internal pump is you can buy the pump that best suits your application.
One way to reduce the risk of the filter leaking is to put the pump in the filters return line, as opposed to the intake line. The makes the pump pull water through the filter as opposed to pushing water through the filter which in turn changes the way the pressure works inside the canister making leaking far less likely.
The Bioforce 2000 is a sealed filter, just like a canister, and can be placed below the tank. Placing the pump on the return line, as opposed to the intake line, greatly reduced the pressure within the filter and therefore greatly reduces the likelihood of it leaking.
BioForce 2000 costs around $200 w/ media holds about 5 gallons of water/media (much more than an FX5) and can be used with up to an 1800 gph pump (Ive personally used 1200, 1800 & 2400 gph pump, 2400 had problems, 1800 worked long term with no problems).
Cleaning the filter is a bit of a pain, but quick disconnect valves can be put in the lines just like on a canister. Then the only hard part is moving the larger canister to the area you wish to clean it and the reality is, a larger filter has benefits and the only way to get those benefits is to deal with a larger filter at cleaning time. Now keep in mind, its about the same size/weight as a 5 gallon bucket, which are all accustom to moving around
My BioForce 2000 w/ pump, tubes, etc cost me right at $300... The going rate on an FX5 is right at $300... My BF moves twice as much water as the FX5 and has about 1.5 times the media volume
Although I have never owned/used one I see absolutely no reason why a pond filter with a backwash feature cannot be used on an aquarium. You would simply connect a hose to the backwash line and backwash it into a bucket, or attach a long hose which discharges into the lawn/garden. I have not owned/used one personally but I have read up on them after having ample personal experience using a pond filter.
As a final note, be cautious who you take advice from. I suggest you only listen to people with first hand personal experience on topics like this. Speculative advice can lead you off course very quickly. For example, my BF 2000 was connected to the tank just like a canister. The tank was not drilled nor would the tank being drilled have offered the filter any benefits.
njackson;3254429; said:
I do not know of any pond filters that have an internal pump. One major benefit of them not having an internal pump is you can buy the pump that best suits your application.
One way to reduce the risk of the filter leaking is to put the pump in the filters return line, as opposed to the intake line. The makes the pump pull water through the filter as opposed to pushing water through the filter which in turn changes the way the pressure works inside the canister making leaking far less likely.
Dude, I'd be TERRIFIED of putting that in my house. . . One little leak and you're going to drain your tank on the floor. . .
I'd go with a sump. Cheaper & more efficient for your house. Heck, we're even using sumps in ponds now, we're just calling them bogs and growing plants in them.
I'd go with a sump. Cheaper & more efficient for your house. Heck, we're even using sumps in ponds now, we're just calling them bogs and growing plants in them.
