Powerhead inside tank? needed?

[infin]

only reason i have the sump return flowing water on the top is that incase the power fail the water level will only drain that much, i do have a check valve on the return, but it has not closed all the way before is there anyway to drill a small hole or add somethign else if i lower the flow stream? I had the powerhead on the other side but i found the tank collecting alot of debis on the bottom on the right side so i moved it. The rays kick up alot of sand so filpping the powerhead wont do too much help. I think i will just remove it and run 2 outputs off the return at different water levels if i cand find a fail safe way of preventing the siphoning due to a power fail. Both overflows are being used.

 

[Lil_Stinker]

only reason i have the sump return flowing water on the top is that incase the power fail the water level will only drain that much, i do have a check valve on the return, but it has not closed all the way before is there anyway to drill a small hole or add somethign else if i lower the flow stream? I had the powerhead on the other side but i found the tank collecting alot of debis on the bottom on the right side so i moved it. The rays kick up alot of sand so filpping the powerhead wont do too much help. I think i will just remove it and run 2 outputs off the return at different water levels if i cand find a fail safe way of preventing the siphoning due to a power fail. Both overflows are being used.

You can drill a hole, this will break siphon. near the top of the down pipe in the return. the hole becomes the drain-to level....

Perhaps a T with a reducer, & a t on the lower to have dual outs ...


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[Dr Joe]

You can drill a hole, this will break siphon. near the top of the down pipe in the return. the hole becomes the drain-to level....

Perhaps a T with a reducer, & a t on the lower to have dual outs ...


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I don't have the heart...someone else tell him.

 

[LoTech]

Actually the diagram should work if done correctly. My syphon break is in a T at the very top of my return pipe. The T is reduced to 1/4 inch, and a piece of 1/4 inch tubing directs the "spill over" water into the tank. The rest of the water goes into the main return. The end of the tube is above the water level of the tank so it can't syphon water.

When the pump stops, water will backflow through the pump into the sump. As it does this, it will suck air from the 1/4 inch tube and break the syphon - air is easier to move than water, so top of the pipe fills with air and the syphon dies.

If you make the syphon break too small, the air will just get sucked down along with the water and the tank will drain, overflow the sump and flood the floor. If the syphon break is too big, you don't get much water down the main return line. Whatever you do TEST IT!

Oh, yeah, the needed size of the syphon break is dependent on the size and height of your main return pipe, not the gph of your pump. Bigger pipes or a taller tank/lower sump will create more potential inertia during a back-syphon, and your syphon break needs to be bigger to work properly.

 

[LoTech]

I don't have the heart...someone else tell him.

Yeah, that was my first reaction, too, but it actually can be done. You jusst don't want something spewing water everywhere...

 

[Lil_Stinker]

Actually the diagram should work if done correctly. My syphon break is in a T at the very top of my return pipe. The T is reduced to 1/4 inch, and a piece of 1/4 inch tubing directs the "spill over" water into the tank. The rest of the water goes into the main return. The end of the tube is above the water level of the tank so it can't syphon water.

When the pump stops, water will backflow through the pump into the sump. As it does this, it will suck air from the 1/4 inch tube and break the syphon - air is easier to move than water, so top of the pipe fills with air and the syphon dies.

If you make the syphon break too small, the air will just get sucked down along with the water and the tank will drain, overflow the sump and flood the floor. If the syphon break is too big, you don't get much water down the main return line. Whatever you do TEST IT!

Oh, yeah, the needed size of the syphon break is dependent on the size and height of your main return pipe, not the gph of your pump. Bigger pipes or a taller tank/lower sump will create more potential inertia during a back-syphon, and your syphon break needs to be bigger to work properly.

Tnank you;

Diagram not to scale...

The siphon-break in my head is actually in the tank, above the waterline, the "spill-over" is a top return, perhaps with a deflector, Thus causing multiple currents. it could be desirable.

It's just a thought..... Bash @ will..

 

[LoTech]

No, it was my fault in not taking the time to think (never happened before, I swear!). My first (incorrect) reaction was that you had created a backwards durso that would make a giant mess. It was all my bad.

 

[Dr Joe]

I don't have the heart...someone else tell him.

Ok, Now that someone else has made more noise I can think better(too quiet here). LiL_Stinker's Diagram is correct, and once I knew where water level was...

I always return the water thru a spray bar above water level I so never had a need for a siphon brake in the return line.

Dang...Thought I got him that time... Next time LS, Next time.... :banme:

Dr Joe

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[Lil_Stinker]

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Oh sure, make me question myself will ya?

I only went a little nuts trying to see the error of my ways.

Now I can put myself back on my pedistal.

I guess I should stop making half posts & try to be a bit more clear. I sure could have explained that one a bit better the first time...

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