progress of the aro noob
- Thread starter dayak
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Cycling a tank (whatever method you use) takes 4-6 WEEKS not days, the fact that you have an ammonia reading higher than 0 makes it pretty obvious that the tank was NOT finished cycling. And when cycling with fish you are supposed to use hardy fish that can tolerate the bad water quality, not something like an arowana.
Ade;4824614; said:
Thank u, it is my goal to bring back the water within the parameter like it was before
That's what u choose to believe, and I do rely on the products to help me boost the cycle by putting the bacteria in the bottle instead of waited it up. And the test proved it work in speeding it upunannon;4824488; said:
Err, I believe you have some misconceptions regarding the cycling process. First of all, simply letting your tank run empty while it is first set up is not cycling. You need to get some ammonia in there to feed the bacteria. If you don't seed, it can take about a month and a half to finish cycling. If you seed with media or gravel, three weeks. And if you use Seachem Stability, it takes about a week to cycle. According to what I've heard from users here in MFK, Seachem Stability seems to be the only product that actually contains BB in a bottle that isn't dead on arrival, a true feat, considering there is neither a constant source of ammonia nor oxygen in a closed bottle.
Whether you use fish or other sources of ammonia does not matter to the speed of the cycle, ammonia is ammonia regardless of where it comes from. This is precisely why you should use fishless methods to cycling, because this way you don't put any fish through the stress of cycling, ESPECIALLY fish like arowanas and black ghost knifefish which don't tolerate ammonia and nitrite very well. You can dose the tank with bottled ammonia, or if you prefer a more hands-free approach, you could let a shrimp rot in the tank (as in, from the supermarket, one that's already dead).
And no, this isn't something we "choose to believe." If you have ammonia and nitrite in your tank, you have not finished cycling. Sure, there is BB bacteria in the tank... that stuff is everywhere, especially in fish keepers' homes, but you're not finished "cycling" until the colony of beneficial bacteria has grown sufficiently to be able to keep the ammonia and nitrite levels at zero, consistently. You are not cycled, and I will say this again, for what feels like the third time: Buy Seachem Stability, it's a "BB in a bottle" product that really seems to work, so that your cycle will be over in about a week, and buy Seachem Prime, so that the ammonia and nitrite in the tank won't permanently damage your fish. Ammonia burns in the gills can be permanent, and can hinder respiration enough that one day your fish just dies.
PS It takes anywhere from 24-48 hours for a colony of nitrifying bacteria to double. Unless you get yourself some Seachem Stability, your tank will have ammonia and nitrite in it for a while.
Whether you use fish or other sources of ammonia does not matter to the speed of the cycle, ammonia is ammonia regardless of where it comes from. This is precisely why you should use fishless methods to cycling, because this way you don't put any fish through the stress of cycling, ESPECIALLY fish like arowanas and black ghost knifefish which don't tolerate ammonia and nitrite very well. You can dose the tank with bottled ammonia, or if you prefer a more hands-free approach, you could let a shrimp rot in the tank (as in, from the supermarket, one that's already dead).
And no, this isn't something we "choose to believe." If you have ammonia and nitrite in your tank, you have not finished cycling. Sure, there is BB bacteria in the tank... that stuff is everywhere, especially in fish keepers' homes, but you're not finished "cycling" until the colony of beneficial bacteria has grown sufficiently to be able to keep the ammonia and nitrite levels at zero, consistently. You are not cycled, and I will say this again, for what feels like the third time: Buy Seachem Stability, it's a "BB in a bottle" product that really seems to work, so that your cycle will be over in about a week, and buy Seachem Prime, so that the ammonia and nitrite in the tank won't permanently damage your fish. Ammonia burns in the gills can be permanent, and can hinder respiration enough that one day your fish just dies.
PS It takes anywhere from 24-48 hours for a colony of nitrifying bacteria to double. Unless you get yourself some Seachem Stability, your tank will have ammonia and nitrite in it for a while.
dayak;4824791; said:
You have ammonia, even if it speed it up, your tank is still not done cycling. Sorry I choose to believe the truth, next time I will turn a blind eye.
If you are ok with having your silver in an uncycled tank, well then thats that. But to argue with your test kit results that makes no sense. I'm only trying to help, since even the title says you are a noob, but even then you refuse to listen. One step forward, two steps back is not how I define progress.
Juxtaroberto, thanks for having the patience to explain it to him once more. I don't know how else to approach this, even though I may try again, if not for him at least for the fish.
I will look into that seachem product if the water parameter is not under control when I get home later.
Like I said so far it was within parameter from the get go it was just shoot higher than I like.
Yes I know I did not do the cycle u guys do, I do it my way which I think is better by monitoring the water parameter.
I introduce my fish in the cycling tank because I wanted to keep those fish.
I know fish create ammo, that's the exact reason I introduce my fish in it, with the help of that bottled BB of my choice, to keep the ammo created by the fish under control.
As long as PH, ammo, nitrite and nitrate within parameter for the fish I'm keeping..don't u think its healthy water for the fish?
On my last test warned me to do 50% WC because nitrate was so high, I know nitrate wasn't really toxic to fish as bad as ammo and nitrite( I might get confused with the wording). But when nitrate ppm is so high it will choke the fish to dead.
PH is acid level of the water low/high, depends on the fish u keeping
Ammo is created by the fish itself
Nitrite is the BB converting the ammo
Nitrate is the result of nitrifiying process of the fish waste/ decayed food
Nitrite (the BB) convert ammo to nitrate, when nitrate concentration is high in the tank means there's too much gas in the water body instead of the oxygen for the fish to breath.
The water was within the paramater untill yesterday across the board,
Like I said so far it was within parameter from the get go it was just shoot higher than I like.
Yes I know I did not do the cycle u guys do, I do it my way which I think is better by monitoring the water parameter.
I introduce my fish in the cycling tank because I wanted to keep those fish.
I know fish create ammo, that's the exact reason I introduce my fish in it, with the help of that bottled BB of my choice, to keep the ammo created by the fish under control.
As long as PH, ammo, nitrite and nitrate within parameter for the fish I'm keeping..don't u think its healthy water for the fish?
On my last test warned me to do 50% WC because nitrate was so high, I know nitrate wasn't really toxic to fish as bad as ammo and nitrite( I might get confused with the wording). But when nitrate ppm is so high it will choke the fish to dead.
PH is acid level of the water low/high, depends on the fish u keeping
Ammo is created by the fish itself
Nitrite is the BB converting the ammo
Nitrate is the result of nitrifiying process of the fish waste/ decayed food
Nitrite (the BB) convert ammo to nitrate, when nitrate concentration is high in the tank means there's too much gas in the water body instead of the oxygen for the fish to breath.
The water was within the paramater untill yesterday across the board,
When did the WC my ammo was 0.25 which is still acceptable number I know ideal is 0, nitrate was bit too high and so is the nitrate, which means to me I have too much BB and some of the BB died because of it has less food previously because of lack of ammo which was at 0 most of the test result done. Nitrate spiked high because of the left over BB nitrifying the dead BB and the ammo created by the fish.
Or maybe I misunderstood on how nitrogen work?
Or maybe I misunderstood on how nitrogen work?
dayak;4825075; said:
you are not listening to what people on mfk are advising you to do..they are giving some great advice which is tried and tested..you seem to be knowing alot about fish keeping but you are doing alot of it wrong. there is nothing wrong in learning. the way you are cycling your tank is wrong. people are taking the effort to explain the mistakes you are making. take their advice and stop beating about the same bush. if you dont want advice dont ask for one. and i dint really understand what you mean by some of your bb died coz of less food, i dont think it works that way. some people dnt feed their fishes for a week or more when on vacations, it dosent kill all their bb.
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