lujor;4436698; said:
But do tank bred fish show better colors if gradually adjusted to the same conditions as their native waters? The LFS near me keeps their Africans in the same water they keep their Discus and everything else in... and yet they recommended the buffer and salt...hmmmm. The municipal water here is pH7.4-7.6, is moderately hard, and is very well buffered; don't know the specifics tho. I have also been told that the Rift Valley Cichlid salts help prevent Malawi bloat. True?
Yes your rift lake cichlids will always show better colors if they are kept in hard alkaline water. With your ph at 7.4-7.6 you should use a buffer.
Malawi bloat is usually caused by a flaggelates (parasites) that are normally present in fishes intestines without causing any problems. It's when the fish are kept in less than ideal (stressful) conditions they become a problem and cause bloat. So that is probably why told you it will help prevent bloat. IMO, general hardness is not really that much of a factor. PH, ammonia, nitrite, high nitrates etc. are more important. Some say excessive salts will also cause bloat so that's why I wouldn't use the salts unless your going to be testing general hardness.
lujor;4436996; said:
And are the same minerals and trace elements present in both (most) municipal water supplies and the buffer and salt? Are there important substances in the supplements that are not usually present in tap water?
Well tap water varies alot but I would guess that for the most part the same minerals are present, just in differing amounts depending on where you live.
The seachem buffer is carbonates plus some borate. Seachem has always been big on using borate to target a specific ph with their buffers. By adding a certain amount of borate is how they can put "ph 8.4" on the label. If you were to have ph meter in the water you would see the ph go quickly to "8.4" when you added it. However the ph would then go back down after a day or so because it is ultimately the carbonate hardness (alkalinity) that determines your ph. That's why I said just use baking soda and save some money. But get an alkalinity test kit so you'll know how much to use. Here's an alkalinity calculator to tell you how much to add to get to your desired alkalinity
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/reef-calculator#AlkalinityCalculator
If you choose to adjust the general hardness, the lake salts are sodium chloride (salt), magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, and sulfates. Unlike, say a reef tank, you don't have to worry about specific levels of calcium, megnesium, etc. So you can do that with non iodized salt and epsom salt (magnesium sulfate). Just a 50/50 mix will do.