PUMP CAPACITY REDUCTION??????

[RAWLO]

I have a pump that pumps 12 000 lph @ 2m head height, need 2-3000,possible at 6m height, is there any electrical ways to slow a pump down? Or possible reduction in hose diameter. Or would closing partialy a shutoff valve, cause overheating? any ideas??
I'm guessing I need a new pump.

BRING ON ALL THE SMART REMARKS AND

 

[rallysman]

install a "T" after the pump with a ball valve so you can regulate a certain amount of water back into the sump.

 

[Merbeast]

I use a ball valve on my pump. I don't think it will burn the pump out to reduce the flow, essentially it is duplicating a higher head height. As long as there is water flowing trhu the pump cooling and lubricating it, there should be no problem.

 

[Dr Joe]

Go with rallysman's way as your not reducing efficiency of the pump and creating more heat.

Merbeast' idea will work in a pinch, but by-passing is better.

Or you could use it for a new water feature and get another pump .

Dr Joe

.

 

[Danh]

Do the T or Y route. You have one returning to the tank and the other side of the T or Y going back into your sump through a ball valve. That way you fine tune exactly how much is going back into your sump, which fine tunes how much is going into your tank. Yes, the ball valve directly after the pump is similar to more head on the pump, but it is also uneccessary stress on the pump. I use a T in my 180g and 450g. You can use this to go back over your bio area, or into a FB filter, which also needs to be adjustable, and then back into your sump.

 

[aquatic_wonders]

Do the T or Y route. You have one returning to the tank and the other side of the T or Y going back into your sump through a ball valve. That way you fine tune exactly how much is going back into your sump, which fine tunes how much is going into your tank. Yes, the ball valve directly after the pump is similar to more head on the pump, but it is also uneccessary stress on the pump. I use a T in my 180g and 450g. You can use this to go back over your bio area, or into a FB filter, which also needs to be adjustable, and then back into your sump.

Myabe u could post some picture.

 

[rallysman]

When bypassing some water back into the sump you can also use it for UV or FSB if the flow is correct.

 

[Bud8Fan]

 

[Danh]

This is the best one I could fine. You see the pump in the bottom right. The left side has the ball valve and goes right back into the sump. It aerating the water some and that's about it. It could be used for anything though. It's set up a little different now, but doing the same thing. The top of the picture returns into the tank. Adjust the flow back into the sump to adjust how much goes into the tank.

 

[Danh]

This is the 450g. Don't worry, the strip isn't hanging there any more.. The room has been completely rewired from the panel. The closest return has a ball valve in it to close during water changes to reduce the pressure on the check valve you can see in that return at the very bottom. It's not to reduce flow.
The far return has the T in it. You can see the check valve just below the T, then you can see the other ball valve that I would use to adjust the flow just below the strip. Then above that you see one more check valve, and higher up there is another ball valve for that return. I don't have that going back into my sump right now because my overflows can handle the full flow of the two pumps. But if I wanted to run something else like an FB filter, a non-powered canister, or another uv, then I'd hard plumb it in right there and I wouldn't have to add another pump in the sump.