Pump for 2000g system

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
DIDYSIS said:
All I can see when looking at that pump is the huge Watt requirement. I would look into multiple pumps with a lower Watt usage. You will gain your money back fast, and I agree with the rest multiple 2inch PVC lines would be great, no real need for 3 inch.

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The estimate I read in someone testing was that 40% of the wattage moves to heating the tank. That means at 10' of head, it consumes 690 watts for pumping (other wattage is heating the tank) and pumps 10,000 gph.

That is 14.5 gallons per watt. Not the best (laguna max flo 4200 does 20gallons/watt) but I have a 30 foot run and not sure 5 laguna max flo 4200's would be the best idea.

3" pipe loses 14 feet of head over a 100 foot run, so in 30 feet I am losing about 4 feet - with 3" I would lose less than a foot.




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vamptrev said:
I would do 2 smaller pumps with less wattage and put return ball valves to control the flow. Check these pumps out http://www.evolutionpumps.com/


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Based on the 40% figure of wattage being transferred into heat for the water (if this is accurate), these pumps are less efficient.

I had been looking at them as well, though at 10' head, the pump produces 4640 with 363 watts.

12.78 gallons per watt.

Original pond pump - 14.5 gallons per watt.




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I'm not exactly sure why, but when you get into the larger submersible pumps, they tend to produce a lot less GPH per watt. I think it's similar to how when you get to a certain speed in cars, it takes an exponential increase in HP to get just a few more MPH...similar to terminal velocity, although with a plumbing system, you can always increase pipe diameter to reduce friction head (running 3" would definitely help in that regard).

I like the idea of running two smaller pumps to run the system as opposed to one monster pump.

These pumps might be worth a look: AquaSurge Pro Variable Speed Pumps
http://www.azponds.com/New_webpages/New_subpumps_Classic.html
I have no personal experience with them, but they seem to have some pretty good flow per watt.

In regards to the heat transfer of the pump, if what is posted on BeanAnimal's site is correct and 100% of the wattage is transferred to the water, then running a 1,000W pump (Basically a 1000W heater) 24/7 may cause some problems for you in the summer time when things warm up. If your ambient room temps get to 70F or above, then I think you will have problems with your tank overheating.

Here's a pretty handy heating calculator that incorporates a lot of the factors that are mentioned in that BeanAnimals article you posted: http://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/HeaterChillerSizing.php
In my experience it's a pretty accurate calculator. I was pretty amazed to see how beneficial just a little insulation can be as well as how superior acrylic is in regards to it's insulation properties relative to glass.
 
Haha - awesome.

I love bouncing ideas off of you.

Will take a look at this more on depth tonight.

Awesome.


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aldiaz33 said:
I'm not exactly sure why, but when you get into the larger submersible pumps, they tend to produce a lot less GPH per watt. I think it's similar to how when you get to a certain speed in cars, it takes an exponential increase in HP to get just a few more MPH...similar to terminal velocity, although with a plumbing system, you can always increase pipe diameter to reduce friction head (running 3" would definitely help in that regard).

I like the idea of running two smaller pumps to run the system as opposed to one monster pump.

These pumps might be worth a look: AquaSurge Pro Variable Speed Pumps
http://www.azponds.com/New_webpages/New_subpumps_Classic.html
I have no personal experience with them, but they seem to have some pretty good flow per watt.

In regards to the heat transfer of the pump, if what is posted on BeanAnimal's site is correct and 100% of the wattage is transferred to the water, then running a 1,000W pump (Basically a 1000W heater) 24/7 may cause some problems for you in the summer time when things warm up. If your ambient room temps get to 70F or above, then I think you will have problems with your tank overheating.

Here's a pretty handy heating calculator that incorporates a lot of the factors that are mentioned in that BeanAnimals article you posted: http://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/HeaterChillerSizing.php
In my experience it's a pretty accurate calculator. I was pretty amazed to see how beneficial just a little insulation can be as well as how superior acrylic is in regards to it's insulation properties relative to glass.
Click to expand...

Calculator is very simple to use - thank you.

Real nice thing with that pump is @10' it is apparently still producing some 4000+ gallons of flow.... Impressive.

When you compare it with other submersibles, once head is added their production curves fall rather quickly.


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