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Jgray152;3238807; said:If you need 30 amps to power the essentials in the house, that's around 3600 watts at 120v.
3600watts at 12v is 300 AMPS! Do you have a battery that will last long with a 300 amp discharge? Does your vehicle have a 350-400 amp alternator?
Why do you think its ONLY for someones fish tank? Electric water heaters can take major power. Furnaces can take a lot of power as well. Fridge, freezer, washer dryer if you need too, fish tanks and anything else someone may have that needs to run.i didn’t read it all, I just gave across my idea. I am sure that no house will require a 5000w generator just to get through a power outage. When we have power out, we just light a few candles, and I keep check on my fish. If you have power down for a few days, you might need a generator for the fish, but will you actually need to keep the washing machine running and power the dish washer, electric oven? how about a pillar drill?
To need a constant 5000w of energy makes me think that you would have a 15000 liter marine tank in the house.
I am sure that no house will require a 5000w generator just to get through a power outage
Where did you reference this from? You are better of going with the National Electric Code(NEC) table 310.17. The amperage rating of copper conductors has to do with wire size, and insulation temperature rating. Voltage has no pertinence.Jgray152;3459208; said:Max Current Rating For household copper wires at 110v
Gauge ....... Current Rating
4 ............... 80 A
6 ............... 60 A
8 ............... 46 A
10 ............. 33 A
12 ............. 23 A
I wanted to be specific since for those that may find that chart and want to use it for a different voltage such as 220v or 12v since the amperage for a specific voltage is much different at those voltages than at 110v.Where did you reference this from? You are better of going with the National Electric Code(NEC) table 310.17. The amperage rating of copper conductors has to do with wire size, and insulation temperature rating. Voltage has no pertinence.
Amperage rating for the copper wire has to do with two things only gauge/size of the wire and temp of the insulation. Bringing watts or voltage into the mix is not needed.Maybe I'm just not understanding this as well I as think I am. Who knows... At any rate, the chart below reflects the difference in 110V AC vs. 12V DC usage, even though I'm still at a loss to explain the details.
voltage matters not in the correct ampacity but in using a large enough wire to provide acceptable voltage drops. hence the gauge will be different for 12 than 440 volts based on voltage
While this is somewhat true it has to do more with conductor length then voltage, have a look at the NEC. #12 copper thhn for example rated the same no matter, 120, 220, 277, 440, volts. Voltage does not have a bearing on the wire amperage rating. You may need to upsize the wire for voltage drop, but the wire you buy is rated per conductor size, insulation and I should include if it is copper or aluminum.
also ampacity ratings change for free air, a couple of wires in adequate conduit or derated if the conduit is over filled
Again there are calcutations for derating according to installion, I believe the NEC Tables 310.16 310.17 etc are rated as in free air. There are many factors that go into installation of the wire, but I am sorry voltage does not have a bearing on the wire amperage rating.
a large diesel motor using an electric starter will draw way over 5000 watts to start such as on a boat..........bigger engine starters maybe 24 32 or 36 volts..........
Not sure what this would have do with residential or commerial wiring and isn't really cover by the NEC. I'm sure it applies to the generator it's self but this is a totally different constructed conductor.
be safe...........dont spark around
This I will agree with you completely