Reduce Nitrates w/ Biohome Media

[zennzzo]

Since I don't know your exact bioload and how heavily you feed, I recommend 2-3kgs.
You should put it in the last chamber of your wet dry sys. They need to be fully submerged and NO AIR injection. Nitrate is removed in an anaerobic environment.
Depending on your flow rate, Oxygen is consumed by the aerobic bacteria in the early stages of filtration, so the less oxygenated the water when in reachs the biohome, the more effective it will be.

Hmmm...And I thought one of the benificial asspect of a wet/dry system was oxygenation based on the "dry" part of the system.
Maybe we are talking about a different type of Wet/Dry system?...

while reading through the other thread on this product in the vedors forum, I found this...

The manufacturer claims 1 liter (1kg) of biohome can handle 2250 liters(562 gals)
But I prefer to use 1kg for 150 gals of water. This amount will be sufficient to easily
handle all ammonia and nitrite.

Now, I'm no math genius, but I'm thinking 2-3kgs. is greater than the 1kg. you quoted in the other thread today at 7:30 PM.

594.452gals(2250l.) is slightly more than 150gals.(like 4x)

I'm thinking that your recomendation is aprox. 8-12x the manufacturers recomendation, but then again what do they know, right?

So, given the 150g moderate bioloaded tank
(1 15" Arowana-3-plecos 6",7" and 10", feed like kings) ,
using a fluidised bed system
(as per manufacturers optimal efficency filter type and "USING" air injection)
how much product would I need to test this stuff myself...

I'm not trying to pay the "light bill" this month, but I would like to try this stuff out to see if it is as good or better than what I am currently running.

It is my belief that a product will sell itself if it is as good as it's claims,
and I just haven't got time, no, no I haven't the patience for those
"little old lady, only drove it to church on Sundays" deals...

I'm not saying that this is one of those deals, but well, the numbers keep making my PC crash...
Something isn't adding up
Please belive I'm not trying to brake anybodys' balls...just interested in better water quality for my fish..
...thanks ~Zennz

 

[Not Just Fish]

Hmmm...And I thought one of the benificial asspect of a wet/dry system was oxygenation based on the "dry" part of the system.
Maybe we are talking about a different type of Wet/Dry system?...

while reading through the other thread on this product in the vedors forum, I found this...



Now, I'm no math genius, but I'm thinking 2-3kgs. is greater than the 1kg. you quoted in the other thread today at 7:30 PM.

594.452gals(2250l.) is slightly more than 150gals.(like 4x)

I'm thinking that your recomendation is aprox. 8-12x the manufacturers recomendation, but then again what do they know, right?

So, given the 150g moderate bioloaded tank
(1 15" Arowana-3-plecos 6",7" and 10", feed like kings) ,
using a fluidised bed system
(as per manufacturers optimal efficency filter type and "USING" air injection)
how much product would I need to test this stuff myself...

I'm not trying to pay the "light bill" this month, but I would like to try this stuff out to see if it is as good or better than what I am currently running.

It is my belief that a product will sell itself if it is as good as it's claims,
and I just haven't got time, no, no I haven't the patience for those
"little old lady, only drove it to church on Sundays" deals...

I'm not saying that this is one of those deals, but well, the numbers keep making my PC crash...
Something isn't adding up
Please belive I'm not trying to brake anybodys' balls...just interested in better water quality for my fish..
...thanks ~Zennz

Your comments are welcome, but your sarcasm isn't appreciated. I will try to explain my reasoning better. Aerobic bacteria is what brakes down ammonia and nitrite. Thus oxygen is required for this process and the dry part accomplishes this very well. Basically a wetdry filter is a nitrate factory.

Anaerobic bacteria develops in the inner parts of the media where oxygen doesn't get to.
The reason for the slower water flow is to give more time for the aerobic bacteria to consume the oxygen so that then the anaerobic bacteria can go to work. If you are to put the media in your wet dry where the water flow is much faster then the manufacturer suggestion, you will need more media to do the job.

If you where to follow the manufacturers suggestion you will be fine and achieve your desired results, but that would require a dedicated filter that is running maybe less then 100 gals per hour. Most people don't have that luxury. I'm sure you don't want to operate your wet dry at a fill rate of 5mm/sec?????

The manufacturer also states that 1 liter can handle 2250 liters which is approx 500 gals.
But they don't say what the bioload is??? It could be 1 cardinal tetra or 500 tetras.

All I'm trying to do is explain how this stuff can work best and reduce nitrates.
If you see my explaination to the guy with the FX5 and 404. I told him to run the FX5 normally so it will breakdown ammonia and nitrites, but then i told him to run the 404 at a slow flow as per the manufacturer.

How you use the media will determine your results and I am being as upfront about everything as possible. You are welcome to try it on a small tank and see if it works for you, before investing on your 150.

I'm just explaining my experiences with the stuff and sharing it with everyone.

 

[zennzzo]

...Sorry for the unintended sarcasm,
I'm sic like that and I know I should seek therapy...

Would a solution be to impliment an additional devise into my system?
Something like a Lifegard-Pentair FB300?
What is the approx volume of 1kg of product?

I do appreciate the data you supplied, I am trying to obtain as near zero nitrate levels as possible.

Thanx ~Zennz

 

[HarleyK]

Howdy,

Plants have an order of preference when it comes to absorbing nutrients. First is free ammonia, then nitrites , then Nitrates. They consume what is
easier first, and ammonia is easiest.

While this holds true in a laboratory setting, it is not applicable in a cycled fish tank. To sustain medium-fast growing aquatic plants on ammonia or nitrites as sole nitrogen sources, those compounds would have to exceed concentrations that would be lethal for fish. Thus, healthy plant growth relies on nitrates as nitrogen source. This has been discussed previously on this board, but old threads are no longer searchable after MFK got the new skin, so I cannot give you a link. It is not essential for this discussion anyhow.

Anubias are slow-growing plants with low nutrient requirements. Heavily planted tanks often require additional fertilization with nitrates. Our fellow WyldFya ran into problems when the nitrate levels reached zero in his tank (LINK). He actually added potassium nitrate to bring nitrates back up to 6-7 ppm.

As you may understand, I am therefore still uneasy about this product in tanks planted with anything other than Anubias or Microsorum. What does the manufacturer say, and do you maybe know of customers who use it in their planted tanks?

On the other hand, it sounds great for bare /\/\onstertanks

Thanks,
HarleyK

 

[CHOMPERS]

I am everything for better water quality but I am conserned about loading up. The manufacturer states that you "can easily blow through them my mouth when new". So how long until you can't blow through them and at that point is it time to replace them? At the end of the six month period, how clean were they. Also have you run them in a tank without plants? I am interested in how they perform alone without something else consuming nitrates. In other words, we don't know what percent was consumed by the plants and what was consumed anaerobicaly. Does the manufacture give consumption rates?

 

[zennzzo]

I am everything for better water quality but I am conserned about loading up. The manufacturer states that you "can easily blow through them my mouth when new". So how long until you can't blow through them and at that point is it time to replace them? At the end of the six month period, how clean were they. Also have you run them in a tank without plants? I am interested in how they perform alone without something else consuming nitrates. In other words, we don't know what percent was consumed by the plants and what was consumed anaerobicaly. Does the manufacture give consumption rates?

excellent question CHOMPERS...

 

[Not Just Fish]

If you want to keep the nitrates in control but not at zero. Increase the recommended flow rate, this will achieve your goal, as the anaerobic bacteria will not have enough time to consume all the nitrates.

 

[HarleyK]

Howdy,

If you want to keep the nitrates in control but not at zero. Increase the recommended flow rate, this will achieve your goal, as the anaerobic bacteria will not have enough time to consume all the nitrates.

That's good advice. I found this at the website:

Flow rates In our experience we have found the maximum flow rate in an upwelling fluidised bed filter with air injected into the filter inlet is ;

Marine: 10 mm/sec
Fresh: 5 mm/sec

But that set-up does not really apply for most of us here. Could you elaborate a bit on your own set-up? Size tank, volume media used in what filter, flow rate, stocking level, water change intervals and plant list? Hey, a full tank shot might even say more than 1000 words I know, I am asking a lot

Thanks a bunch,
HarleyK

 

[zennzzo]

 

[Scottfree]