i have the pump tied to the side of the sump close to the floor and the return hoses running up to the top of the tank about 4'. with 2 serious elbows and a T. Its still blasting the fish around like Mavericks.
Reducing flow rate
- Thread starter PufferCorps
- Start date
Tee off so one line aims back in the sump, to lessen pressure to the tank.
Or you could put a fluidized bed unit that empties back into the sump, or even a foam fractionator the flows back into the sump. There are many ways to divert water before entering the tank, and blowing fish around.
Below a fluidized bed reactor that aims back into the sump.
another way, would be to drill a series of holes in a long PVC or any tube and run it all along the back of the tank, spreading out the inflow along the entire length of the tank, thus lessening the pressure at 1 or only 2 points.
Or you could put a fluidized bed unit that empties back into the sump, or even a foam fractionator the flows back into the sump. There are many ways to divert water before entering the tank, and blowing fish around.
Below a fluidized bed reactor that aims back into the sump.
another way, would be to drill a series of holes in a long PVC or any tube and run it all along the back of the tank, spreading out the inflow along the entire length of the tank, thus lessening the pressure at 1 or only 2 points.
Tee off so one line aims back in the sump, to lessen pressure to the tank.
Or you could put a fluidized bed unit that empties back into the sump, or even a foam fractionator the flows back into the sump. There are many ways to divert water before entering the tank, and blowing fish around.
Below a fluidized bed reactor that aims back into the sump.
Hey! I like that idea! I want to do that pvc pipe idea!
Is it like a spray bar?
Pics???
another way, would be to drill a series of holes in a long PVC or any tube and run it all along the back of the tank, spreading out the inflow along the entire length of the tank, thus lessening the pressure at 1 or only 2 points.
Did you end up adding a ball valve to reduce the Iwaki before adding Ts and what not. I think it's a good idea to add one before the other changes, imo.
These are water pumps that have power supply converting to direct current. The benefits of these pumps are they come with a controller module where you can increase or decrease water flow with the controller. Most DC pumps consume less power too. There are many threads on MFKs on DC pumps. I would imagine some are less expensive than that Japan version Iwaki.
If that's not an option, I'd try reducing via a ball valve though ;-)
so the dimmer switch isn't a good idea? I thought it might cut costs of energy.
I had to consolidate all the puffer communes into one big collective commune to stop the rape of our pocketbook by that other megacorp PG&E. Our bill was $500 a month.
Which pump is the most energy efficient?
crap. i siliconed the pipes that come from the sump to the motor. PLEASE tell me i dont have to start over. Can the ball valve go between the pump and the tank?
check it out. i tied it on the sump and got a flexible pvc pipe to go between the sump and the pump. i can cut into that for the valve.
what do you think?
what do you think?
It's hard to tell from the photo, but place the ball valve on the outlet from return pump to tank.
I wouldn't use the light dimmer.
I wouldn't use the light dimmer.
