Reseal or complete tear down

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

504 Fish Keeper

Gambusia
MFK Member
May 29, 2016
27
6
18
My daughter’s ten gallon just started leaking out the blue. I wanted to know how can I tell if I just need to reseal it or take the whole tank apart & silicone the panels back together. If I have to take the whole tank apart I’ll just get another tank.
 
Ten gallons, in an aquarium, translates to a very small and inexpensive-to-replace tank.

Ten gallons soaking into your carpet or hardwood floor is a whole different critter.

You could carefully inspect all the seams to see if one of them has begun to give way. If not, you would then need to carefully scrape every bit of the interior bead off the glass...all of it, all the way around...and then apply a new bead. If the actual seam has let loose, you would need to complete dismantle the thing, scrape off every last bit of silicone, and then rebuild. The current fish would need alternate housing for at least a couple of days while you mess around with this. If this is your first attempt at silicone work, you will end up with a tank that should hold water...and it will look like your first attempt at silicone work. :)

Honestly, the only benefit to this that I can see is the experience gained in working with silicone and glass. If all you want is a nice tank that holds water, just get a new one. The time you save can be better spent enjoying your daughter's fish with her.
 
$1 a gallon is on a Petco, bout the same price as a tube a sealant. A 20h sure looks like a 10 to the untrained eye if there is nothing to compare it too as well! :headbang2

The 'DIY King' stated that anything under 29-30gals isnt really worth the time, having started the project on a 29gal, I found it not worth the time as well.
 
Ten gallons, in an aquarium, translates to a very small and inexpensive-to-replace tank.

Ten gallons soaking into your carpet or hardwood floor is a whole different critter.

You could carefully inspect all the seams to see if one of them has begun to give way. If not, you would then need to carefully scrape every bit of the interior bead off the glass...all of it, all the way around...and then apply a new bead. If the actual seam has let loose, you would need to complete dismantle the thing, scrape off every last bit of silicone, and then rebuild. The current fish would need alternate housing for at least a couple of days while you mess around with this. If this is your first attempt at silicone work, you will end up with a tank that should hold water...and it will look like your first attempt at silicone work. :)

Honestly, the only benefit to this that I can see is the experience gained in working with silicone and glass. If all you want is a nice tank that holds water, just get a new one. The time you save can be better spent enjoying your daughter's fish with her.
Hi. I have a 125 gallon tank that started leaking late June. I was thinking of buying three 3 oz tubes of Aqueon
Ten gallons, in an aquarium, translates to a very small and inexpensive-to-replace tank.

Ten gallons soaking into your carpet or hardwood floor is a whole different critter.

You could carefully inspect all the seams to see if one of them has begun to give way. If not, you would then need to carefully scrape every bit of the interior bead off the glass...all of it, all the way around...and then apply a new bead. If the actual seam has let loose, you would need to complete dismantle the thing, scrape off every last bit of silicone, and then rebuild. The current fish would need alternate housing for at least a couple of days while you mess around with this. If this is your first attempt at silicone work, you will end up with a tank that should hold water...and it will look like your first attempt at silicone work. :)

Honestly, the only benefit to this that I can see is the experience gained in working with silicone and glass. If all you want is a nice tank that holds water, just get a new one. The time you save can be better spent enjoying your daughter's fish with her.

I have a 125 gallon turtle tank that started leaking late June. I was thinking of buying three 3 oz tubes of Aqueon silicone sealant. Do you think this would be enough?
 
Hi. I have a 125 gallon tank that started leaking late June. I was thinking of buying three 3 oz tubes of Aqueon


I have a 125 gallon turtle tank that started leaking late June. I was thinking of buying three 3 oz tubes of Aqueon silicone sealant. Do you think this would be enough?

Well, the actual volume of silicone in three tubes...I'm talking standard 300ml caulking-gun tubes...is enough to adhere and seal that much glass. But when you consider the extra that will squeeze out and end up being wiped off/discarded/wasted...especially if you are new to this wonderful gooey mess of a project :)...then I'd say no. Get plenty of extra silicone; it has a very long shelf life, has many other uses in the hobby, and even a partially-used tube, if carefully sealed at the end, will usually still be useful at a later date.

Two more comments. First: Check the best-before date on the tubes you buy. They're good for a couple years, but I have accidentally purchased tubes that were already expired on the store shelf. Didn't notice until after the job was complete, and never had a problem, but why risk it? Buy fresh.

And second: I am guessing that Aqueon silicone...like any other hardware product that is re-branded for aquarium use...is probably stupidly expensive. Just go the the hardware superstore and get clear GE Silicone I; it's been used for this purpose for decades and works beautifully, and will probably be cheaper than the Aqueon-branded stuff (which is likely the identical stuff). Don't get Silicone II. And don't fret when you read on the tube that Silicone I is not for continuous underwater use, or for aquariums. The product hasn't changed, but the labelling has, probably for some obscure liability reason. The product still works as perfectly as it always has. Make sure you have excellent ventilation, as the acetic acid fumes from a larger project can become irritating otherwise.

Take your time, be thorough in removing all old silicone before starting as new silicone won't bond properly to old. Clean the glass thoroughly, have lots of paper towels on hand, and make sure that you have everything ready before you start. Don't sweat it if you get the occasional smudge or dab of silicone in unwanted spots on the glass, it'll be easy to remove with a razor blade after it cures. Once you begin sealing the pieces together, you can't stop for a break; the entire box must be built in one shot, so that there is no point where the silicone begins to cure before you add more.

Good luck!
 
Well, the actual volume of silicone in three tubes...I'm talking standard 300ml caulking-gun tubes...is enough to adhere and seal that much glass. But when you consider the extra that will squeeze out and end up being wiped off/discarded/wasted...especially if you are new to this wonderful gooey mess of a project :)...then I'd say no. Get plenty of extra silicone; it has a very long shelf life, has many other uses in the hobby, and even a partially-used tube, if carefully sealed at the end, will usually still be useful at a later date.

Two more comments. First: Check the best-before date on the tubes you buy. They're good for a couple years, but I have accidentally purchased tubes that were already expired on the store shelf. Didn't notice until after the job was complete, and never had a problem, but why risk it? Buy fresh.

And second: I am guessing that Aqueon silicone...like any other hardware product that is re-branded for aquarium use...is probably stupidly expensive. Just go the the hardware superstore and get clear GE Silicone I; it's been used for this purpose for decades and works beautifully, and will probably be cheaper than the Aqueon-branded stuff (which is likely the identical stuff). Don't get Silicone II. And don't fret when you read on the tube that Silicone I is not for continuous underwater use, or for aquariums. The product hasn't changed, but the labelling has, probably for some obscure liability reason. The product still works as perfectly as it always has. Make sure you have excellent ventilation, as the acetic acid fumes from a larger project can become irritating otherwise.

Take your time, be thorough in removing all old silicone before starting as new silicone won't bond properly to old. Clean the glass thoroughly, have lots of paper towels on hand, and make sure that you have everything ready before you start. Don't sweat it if you get the occasional smudge or dab of silicone in unwanted spots on the glass, it'll be easy to remove with a razor blade after it cures. Once you begin sealing the pieces together, you can't stop for a break; the entire box must be built in one shot, so that there is no point where the silicone begins to cure before you add more.

Good luck!

Awesome! The Aqueon is at Chewy and is really expensive. I was in Home Depot the other week with the silicone and DID get freaked out by the warning label on the back. Ok, so I can go back to Home Depot and get a couple (3 or 4) of these babies. And a dispenser gun. If I scrape all the old silicone out with a bunch of single edge razor blades, will the glass still stand together long enough for me to reseal it? I am assuming there was some glue holding it originially and it’s just the sealant that my turtle picked at that went leaky.

Is there any tool that holds a razor blade perpendicular like a T or hammerhead shark?

87105F2E-9998-4347-B74C-D90C61099AF7.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: tarheel96
Awesome! The Aqueon is at Chewy and is really expensive. I was in Home Depot the other week with the silicone and DID get freaked out by the warning label on the back. Ok, so I can go back to Home Depot and get a couple (3 or 4) of these babies. And a dispenser gun. If I scrape all the old silicone out with a bunch of single edge razor blades, will the glass still stand together long enough for me to reseal it? I am assuming there was some glue holding it originially and it’s just the sealant that my turtle picked at that went leaky.

Is there any tool that holds a razor blade perpendicular like a T or hammerhead shark?

View attachment 1433026

Yeah, I thought the price would be better. Again, make sure you buy Silicone I and not Silicone II. Any cheap caulking gun will work fine.

Now, others may disagree with me on this point, but...if the tank is merely leaking slowly, you will probably be fine if you simply remove all of the internal silicone all the way around the inside seams, clean down to the bare glass, and then reapply that seal all the way around. A couple tubes of silicone would be enough for this. You will have to be careful that the razor blade you use doesn't slip in between the glass pieces and damage the actual structural seal there; this is the same silicone, and it is what holds the pieces of glass together as a box. There's no other type of glue involved. The new silicone bead that you apply all the way around the interior will be sticking to the clean glass faces and will simply bridge across the tiny gap, making little of no contact with this structural bead.

But...the fact that water is escaping means that somewhere, somehow, this structural bead has failed. It might be from damage caused by a razor blade during algae cleaning, or perhaps the glass wasn't perfectly clean during the assembly process...but in any case, there's now a flaw somewhere. If it's damage from a blade, it likely won't get worse without outside help...but if it was an improperly-assembled tank and the seal is now failing, it might just keep going. That means complete re-building, which is what I meant in my earlier post. That means stripping off all the silicone...every last bit...including cutting the pieces of glass apart by slicing between them. They won't be standing up by themselves, you will be essentially building a brand new tank from scratch.

Your choice. If you can see the spot where the leak is coming from and it looks as though it were cut, then an internal re-seal would likely be fine. If you can see a larger area that seems to be letting go...or if you can't see anything at all...I'd probably go the rebuild route.
 
JJohn, that’s scary. I texted a guy who may be able to install a new tank for me. I had a piece of metal screen break off of the ramp I made in 2013, and the turtles quite possibly could have shoved it against the silicone piercing the outer payer and the inner layer, acting like the razor blade effect you described. The tank is on the second floor and close to a bathroom, which makes tank cleaning a little easier than a tank on the first floor in my living room. I don’t really want to risk another leak. The turtles are 18 and I am 58. If they live to be 40, I will be 80. The current tank I bought used in 2013. Hopefully a brand new tank would last till we all kick off
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com