Research on Nitrate Poisoning with References for What Levels are Best

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heatherbeast

Jack Dempsey
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Jan 3, 2009
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Hi everyone, I'm tossing this info out as an FYI. I had originally posted to an old thread in General, but it was pointed out that this would be more useful in its own thread elsewhere, so here it is! It absolutely chills me to think that misinformation about nitrate is out there. :S There are a number of studies that have examined the health consequences of chronic, high-level nitrate exposure to fish. I will link to publicly accessible pages that are free for anyone to access.

The study that I am most familiar with (and I think easiest for most people to read) used water with nitrate added (to rule out effects of other factors like temperature and hormones) to evaluate its health effects on hybrid striped bass exposed to the equivalent of 200 ppm nitrate for a /month/ versus a control group. The exposed fish had reduced immune response, reduced antibody counts, anemia from red blood cell lysis, jaundice, kidney failure, and some symptoms that mimicked blindness despite no visible lesions on the fishes' eyes. If you would like to read the original paper, it can be found here. http://www.atlantech.ca/public/artic... Quality.PDF 10-20 ppm appears ideal, with 40 ppm being the absolute upper limit that you should tolerate your tanks being at. (Hint: for most purposes, ppm is the same as mg/mL).

This may raise the question of what values are fish exposed to normally? What do they LIVE in? Here's some numbers taken from rivers and standing bodies of water in New Zealand -- 88 ppm appears to be upper limit of more polluted waters (acute exposure for 4 or less days!), while most other areas where fish and humans share water range between 4.4 to 16 ppm (multiply those numbers by 4.4!) http://ecan.govt.nz/publications/Re...ity-freshwater-aquatic-species-000609-web.pdf

Another paper summarizes all the different research that's been done on nitrate toxicity to fish, amphibians, and invertebrates. The toxicity values are listed on Table 3, page 1261. The LOEC (Lowest Observed Effect Concentration) is the smallest concentration at which negative effects can be observed in ANY fish (trout are pretty sensitive to water quality). You may also happen to notice some REALLY HIGH numbers! Don't kid yourself though, those are concentrations of nitrate that will KILL half of all fish exposed to it for that period of time (LC50, for 24 hours). http://www.waterboards.ca.gov/water_issues/programs/tmdl/records/region_2/2008/ref2426.pdf

Bottom line: 0-10 ppm nitrate is ideal, 20 is okay, and you'd better be doing a water change at anything over 40 ppm. I hope this helps, and if you ever find yourself arguing with anyone else about it, feel free to link to this thread. :nutkick:
 
Also, I am aware that there is some disagreement between hobbyists regarding the maximum nitrate level tolerated before a water change is necessary.

0-10 ppm is certainly ideal, and I would think necessary for fish to thrive to the point that they are breeding. That said, I am also aware that many water systems already contain nitrates to the tune of 10-20 ppm straight out of the tap, hence my suggestion that 40 ppm be the tipping point for water changes. Nitrate removing chemicals (Prime) or materials (zeolite) in filtration, or maybe plants like those described in F1's amazing pothos thread can help prolong the amount of time that your tank spends in that ideal zone. :)
 
Well put, I saw your post on the old thread and was hoping you'd start a new one. I read through the articles and they more or less confirmed what I had been hearing from others and suspected on my own, although I didn't realize how severe nitrate poisining could be while still in the double digits.

My tap water comes out at around 10ppm nitrates so I am still planning on adding some of F1's almighty pothos once I can get my sump enclosed (my cat spends a lot of time in there :irked:) I'm sure there will be some dissent and people will readily point out numbers are different for different species, but it doesnt have a rule of thumb to stick to. I usually try to keep my nitrates below 30, but they usually hit around 40 before I can do a water change. After reading these articles I think I will be finishing my stand and adding pothos sooner than I thought
 
Thanks for the shout out guys, pothos definitely reduces nitrates and for the price it is a no brainer!


I know old school fish keepers that think nitrates has little to know ill effects on fish and some that absolutely can't live with them and have drips or serious wc schedules, if you know and watch your fish you should know if they are stressed, hungry or happy.

Ways to reduce nitrates other then wc:

Feed less (most of us overfeed anyways)
Clear uneaten food
Clean filters regularly, same for media (carbon can leach out nitrates or toxic matter after awhile)
Vac substrate (gravel traps waste whilst sand keeps it on top)
Plants/pothos
Decorations can also hide old food or rotting decay

Most importantly figure out your bio load! Do a large wc and everyday after test, when it reaches or exceeds 30ppm that's when you hit your bio load, if it takes 5 days to hit the magic number you know you need a wc every 5 days to keep up water quality so your fish thrive!

With my pothos it is 1 30 percent wc per week, before it was 1 50 percent every 5 days.

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Go S.Vettel #1 RB8 3X WDC!!!!!!!!!

http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?504763-Cheap-plants-less-nitrate!-POTHOS
 
Good rule of thumb about nitrate monitoring. I need to do that myself...

Sent from the mars rover
 
Heather, I tried your first link & it isn't working.
anyway, I don't really understand the tables :-/
is there someplace more simple, related to regular aquaria?

One of my tanks hit about the 30ppm mark, but some lemon tetras died before that point. are they extra sensitive?
it seems like I recall "some" kind of tetras being used as water quality indicators, but not sure.
I guess lemons are more susceptible to it than other species. everything else has been fine: geos, black skirt tetras, baby severum..
well darnit, I had these for a nice schooling effect, not canaries in the coal mine.
:-(
now I'm pissed @myself.

ammonia & nitrites zero. no sign of illness or attacks, so it must be the nitrate. I had pulled my Purigen out for renewal & got lax replacing it afterwards.
 
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