RO/DI Filter for Arowana

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michalm

Candiru
MFK Member
Feb 2, 2009
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Hello,

I just installed RO/DI system for my tank. Water is automatically exchange - 2 gallons per hour...

I have Eheim 2080 and MegaFlow 4 (Wet/Dry filter).

Water from RO/DI is pure and I wonder if it's good for my fish (Arowana and Stingrays). Maybe I should add something to the water ?

What do you think ?
 
yes, reverse osmosis water is not good for them long term. if it is all ro water in the tank the fish will get sick. fish are designed to live in water with some elements.
they are only designed to live in pure, say rain water for short periods.

you could theoretically add the needed salts but i wouldnt bother with that.
you should have atleast some of the water being normal water.
running an ro unit all the time is a bad idea for that reason.
 
ro is not needed for freshwater tank, you would only want ro if you have coral reef system
 
rayluc;4211231; said:
ro is not needed for freshwater tank, you would only want ro if you have coral reef system

I need to use RO/DI filter because in my tap water I have too many Silica and because of that my Algae Scrubbers don't want to working well.

That why I need to know if RO/DI filter can be a problem for my fish ?

Thank you
 
ok so you have an algae problem? light and water and nutrient equals algae.
you cant get rid of light, need water, so you need to remove nutrient.

silica is only one of the elements that help along with others to cause algae.
you would not consider it to be a primary cause because only very small amounts are used by algae and algae will still thrive with tiny amounts of silica.
fact is plants will grow with miniscule levels and some do not even need that but silica in large quantities will not grow plants, its the good dosage of the real culprits.


unless your silica level is totally off the map and causing stress you possibly got led away from the garden path to buying the RO. I came across a very honest supplier of RO units a long while back and he warned me that these are not really good for fish farmers. they do the job intended but too well and cost a bomb.

by the looks you have filtration which would reduce your ammonia.
your ( if established) filter will turn this into nitrate in the end which will be very useable by algae. you also have phosphates which will build up. so i imagine that you would have both nitrate and phosphate at higher than acceptable levels.

it is kind of the long way round to remove these things with a reverse osmosis unit.
it can be done, you have already bought one, so use it. only use it sparingly.
2 gallons an hour in a 160 gallon tank could strip it bare in a week.
use it to pull these elements out somewhat but just dont use it to strip the water of all life.

what i would do is run it for eight hours a day only and see how your water tests come out after a few days. then go from there.

otherwise you can just change 30 percent of the water with new water.
if you cant handle the idea of using your tap water with its silica, use some rain tank water or some water run through the RO. it gives you a better indication of what you have done and its cheaper.

if you run an RO for the first hour, yes its pulling it out good. then after the first day your pumping cleaner reduced water through it at the same rate per hour.

you can exchange 30 percent rain tank water or you can run the RO unit on the same volume of tap water and exchange that.

as you are aware if you use the same tap water your silica level will not drop though it is very unlikley that the silica would be too high for your fish nor the cause of any problems.

after you have done a quick fix, have a think about water plants for some long term cheap buffering stability.

they will take out the nutrient without costing more power and spending the money for an RO unit maintenance/ replacement parts. when your plants or weed or whatever it is gets bigger, harvest them and that removes the nutrient. do not let the plant to overgrow die or rot off. if it is nusiance growth remove it or clean it and siphon it and then exchange water.

just be careful with RO units. dead clean water is not good water and it is very easy to see problems due to technology and yet think something basic is wrong and that it can be solved by more technology.
 
RO water comes in handy especially if your water supply is high in phosphates. Where I come from, I have high phosphates in the tap water,and as such brown algae blooms are unavoidable no matter how many water changes or anything else you do. UV doesn't help with the brown algae. The only real way to tackle issues like this is chemical treatment via products like seachem phosguard etc, or RO water diluted with tap water to a ratio that meets your needs. When you have a lot of water to treat the chemical route can become expensive. That leaves the RO option.
 
Hello :)

Thanks for reply ausarow.. LOL

My main problem is not a algae... I'm testing a system: Algae Scrubbers by Santa Monica :) and the system is not working like should.

This is link to my setup and problem:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=590

I have a high phosphates like you rhodes_96, and RO/DI filter can't reduce phosphates :( - I don't know why...

Thanks
 
my bad, this is the garden path. this would be akin to having a tank area that is lit up with lights and leafy plants in the water. harvesting them as they grow. except this way your encouraging any form of algae that wants to be there under the conditions.
there are a heap of these kinds. you might have just got unlucky in the algae lotto but i doubt it. your feed inputs would be higher than what most others use this SM thing for.
different colour algae will have different life stage sizes and time lengths etc.
lets say you built a thin glass tank and plumbed to it but had it near your window facing the sun light. you have added another algae scrubber system.


ive had a quick look through your post. good work, your rather thorough.
i beg to differ that it is not working though. maybe your feed load is just too much for it to handle completely. consider working out a way to catch the fish waste when it is a solid and remove it. that will also ease the load.
this is done with tapered tanks and a ball tap off valve. you flush out a few litres every couple of days. that will stop the need for a lot of algae area.

it didn't seem to me that your tap water was high in silicates. stop using the chemical fixes. the only need for adding fertiliser is if one of the elements is lacking and limiting the growth, called a limiting factor. that would result in there being nutrient, like phosphate being present and not being used. obviously not the case with this good growth and water tests. having said that you can have a situation where growth occurs, then it stops, until an element is present again. i must say, its really good that you went to get the tests done.

go read some about filamentous algae. i think you will find that part of its life cycle does not involve them being in longer strands. ie they can be very small. adult may be strands..and its growing and thriving, doing its full cycle.
even so, all you need to do is to get a microscope ( borrow) and identify the algae kind and then check its life cycle to find out if i am correct.

you can even get an idea of the size of the algae under the scope. obviously your sock filter is too coarse to filter the smaller particles out. what is it 150 microns?
i have had them at 10 and 5 and 1 micron.
using these fine filters is not the best fix because it may be required all the time.
like if you leave them to almost block they could filter finer than their rating but overflow is probable too. so its a lot of work using these.


though i have not checked how long you left this run without playing with things like chemicals and salt. so i dont know if you have let it become stable to see if time will ease it. you could have been playing up with it too much.. anyway, this is how we learn things.

your fix on the source water holding so much phosphate should be using rain water.
it does make me wonder if there are farms throwing round ferts where your town water storage is, but also look at it like this.
you are also throwing fertlisers in your tank everytime you feed.
on top of the tap water which already has high phosphate.
so if you want to continue feeding like this you need to upsize something to deal with it. also get a thousand litre (or more) water storage tank and catch the rain off the roof but give the settlement area a go.
 
RO/DI water is used for many benefits including reduced phosphates, nitrates and silicates. Pure RO/DI (when oxygenated) has a Ph of 7 but a Kh of zero. It is devoid of necessary trace elements needed for metabolism and so, in large amounts and without additional trace elements added, the fish will die. RO will most certainly remove phosphates (someone mentioned earlier they will not). Adding a Deionizer will ensure this. My suggestion (though it is more work), is to have the ro/di fill a large trash can. Adjust the chemistry of the water in the trash can and pump it into the tank when doing water changes. If you find the algae continues, invest in a Hi-S (Hi-Silicate) ro membrane.
 
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