Scales over angel's gill going going gone....

[Bubbles_n_worms]

If it looks like r

If it looks like really faint milky (foggy) clouds swirling in your water (much like milk poured into coffee, but different colored of course )(the described effect, not the color)(and not readily noticeable if water highly agitated)... that my friend is ammonia which means you need to be very careful. If it hits 2 ppm do a 50% water change each and every time. Do not disturb gravel beds or anything else in the tank. Your bacteria is growing on it (hopefully) and that includes the glass. Dechlorinate first. Then add.

Ok good to know o just did a change and no change to levels. Ph is at 6.0 like u said. I put a grow light on the tank. And I won't vac for at least 30 days also I'm over feeding I think so I'm cutting that in half. Poor Tazer, that's what we call him. He's always been the biggest bully in the tank and it's funny because when you look at his picture he has "mean eyebrows" lol. My angels only nurge though . No nipping . I have a pretty happy tank, if someone is aggressive toward someone else the other one purposely avoid them opposed to being too stupid to realize what's good for them .!! Lol... maybe u can see the clarity this is looking long ways....

 

[ShadowP]

Lol... maybe u can see the clarity this is looking long ways....
Uh...., no.... I don't think anyone could, let alone me and my reading glasses and as much as you like them, stop feeding the blood worms to the fish for now. Even well established fully cycled tanks sometimes can't handle good feedings with bloodworms. Its the liquid organics aspect.... just like soda is the next closest thing to liquid candy, the blood in bloodworms is the next closest thing to liquid ammonia.

 

[Bubbles_n_worms]

Lol... maybe u can see the clarity this is looking long ways....
Uh...., no.... I don't think anyone could, let alone me and my reading glasses and as much as you like them, stop feeding the blood worms to the fish for now. Even well established fully cycled tanks sometimes can't handle good feedings with bloodworms. Its the liquid organics aspect.... just like soda is the next closest thing to liquid candy, the blood in bloodworms is the next closest thing to liquid ammonia.

I didn't know that. The only problem is I have to use them for the knifefish the won't eat pellets and aren't. Super about the beef heart flakes, but I guess if they're hungry... I found out that my son was putting four cubes of blood worms in the tank a day he's 8....he likes to hand feed and when I'm not around....he goes in the freezer.. How about live brine...? Since the ones that don't get picked up are alive still? Btw I started using this. And tomorrow I have live bacteria coming from Amazon. Been doing water changes yesterday went up to 2.0 ppm did a 50% change and not a thing happened, I found out that my water has .50 ppm ammonia in it already so making sure to test it before I add to tank. The prime I have brings it down. But hopefully things happen naturally it looks like it's between 1.0 and 2.0 ppm. My nitrates are coming up there still very close to zero but I can see a hint of orange coming into the yellow . And I've got my pH around 6.0-6.2 like you said. Fish look healthy happy they're eating there actually looking like they're starving to death LOL or at least they act like it. Hopefully the bacteria and the new bottle I bought jumpstart this colonization issue. I also added some baby tears and banana plant .
I did a 15% change this morning I'm on day two of the bottle I showed you. I'm treating it as a new tank. The owner of the pet store was speaking with me yesterday he knows my situation, he told me to take a rest and do changes every other day. What are your thoughts ? I'm just scared with the ammonia being so high. There is a bit of salt in my tank so that's enough for them to have a slime coding hopefully that's helping them as far as their scales are concerned . And I will make sure to lay off the blood worms for a few days I'm not going to see them for a day or two. I was told that, but there is no food in my tank because of the loach and the 3 corys. This morning I gave them a pinch and they acted like they've never eaten before. Will this really make a difference in my tank ? And if so why ? By the way I appreciate your help. Just wanted to let you know.
Current levels are
Ph 6.0
Ammonia 2.0-3.0
Nitrate-.2
My GH test takes 11 drops to turn from orange to green.
As far as Kh goes I can't figure out the test. It always stayed orange/yellow new once showed blue and I put in 50 drops then gave up lol.
I bought a Water softener pillow on Amazon to bring down my GH unless u say otherwise. Let me know what you think if I'm on the right path,if not tell me how and what to do. And of course if there's something I haven't thought of let me know. Thank you April

 

[ShadowP]

To "spot feed" bloodworms to your knife fish, get a length of half or 3/4" thinwall clear acryllic tubing (longer than your tank is deep) and place some thawed bloodworms in the end of it. Hold the other end in your fist with thumb ready to place over the opening. Insert moderately fast into water and place thumb over opening when worms move a few inches up the tube. Place worm end of tube diagonally against gravel (not burried) near your knife fish and let only him feed on the worms sliding down the tube. Anyone else tries to steal them from the opening, either push into gravel a tiny bit, or let a little more air out and suck the worms up the tube a bit, then repeat. You need not feed all the fish the bw. Reserve it for your pickiest eaters til tank clears up.
As to ammonia issue, The Prime will bind it and render it in a safe form for your fish. It still will read as present in your water, but you have no way of knowing the 3 forms present without some very expensive test equipment or harder to find, ion specific test kits.
Don't play with high ammonia levels...
Your fish are cold blooded. Their metabolism is tied directly to the water temps. You want to decrease the ammonia the fastest ways possible???
1. Water changes!
2. Feed sparingly, every other day!!
Boy causing problems with this? Go to walmart and buy the smallest metal cash box w/ key that they have. Take out the plastic bill tray and lock your frozens blister packs in there and of course... stick it back in the freezer. Before you put the food in it though... Duct tape the entire outside of that box (couple good wraps around the handle too)... Doesn't have to be pretty, you can wrap round and round til a good 3 or 5 layers thick then cut the lid seal back open with a sharp knife. Don't need you freezing wet fingers to the bare metal!
2. Find the lowest acceptable temperature that is within the range of all your recommended for your fish. Set temp a degree or two above this, to slow all occupants food requirements down a bit (also saves you $$ in the long term if you keep it there, and you're fish will stay just as healthy, if not a bit more so).
3. Other than that... if you must... lock all your fish food up but include your boy in the feedings regimen. (Otherwise he'll probably find something else to throw in there).

Other than that... looks better! And you can cut back on the water changes once your ammonia stops climbing. Not before... if your ammonia gets too high, it can even start killing your plants and then they will start adding to the ammonia problem... you don't need to run to the lfs about this...you already said what the dying moss ball was doing. Trust what you factually know, and ask when you don't or even if your not quite sure...
Right now, you're doing everything we could possibly hope to expect from a beginnr in the hobby.
Admitted you're new... check!
Admitted there's problem (in detail)... check!
Asked for help... check!
Follow instructions... check!
Gives follow ups... check!
Asks for second opinions and clarifications... check!
Research on your own... BIG CHECK!!!
Truely concerned for the wellfare of your charges... CHECK! CHECK!CHECK!

You're absolutely on the right path!!! For you, it will keep getting easier, even as you climb the ladder to intermediate and advanced levels of more difficult fish to keep.

I speak for me, but I think many members will concur...
You are most welcome in MFK!

BTW, make absolutely certain you are shaking the nitrate test solution bottle vigorously for a full minute before use.
Which one? Does it really matter if you don't worry about which one and just put them both in your fist and SHAKE!?
Some people try and remember things that really don't need to be remembered. Just remember to shake em really good for a full minute, or your reading will be far less accurate.

 

[Bubbles_n_worms]

Just a post to fill you in... Ph at 6.6, probably from the water softener pillow. Ammonia still at 2.5–3.0 Ppm. With water changes every day without disruption of gravel. Starting to see bacteria colonies on the glass. Nitrogen is slowly rising little bit more orange every day but not up to five ppm yet. Adding live bacteria daily as well as the biological filter start up I showed you last post. Added a new filter as well. Still using the bacteria growth tablets in filter. Divided my tank in two. Angelfish we're getting too aggressive with each other. Tank is happy ,eating, and energetic. Also using black water nutrients with natural color additive. They seem more energetic with it. Just anticipating this cycle to go into full swing . what do you think, how long until it is fully cycled ? Any other suggestions ...? How's my approach since last post?

 

[Bubbles_n_worms]