I wish that stuff would have been around, or at least I would have known about it when I did my build. Having to seal my window that way I did was not a real hassel and the resin only cost me $15 but the replacement glass cost me $200.
Thank you guys for all the ideas and advice. I'm going to do some shopping around, a lfs here has some aquarium caulikng? So Im going to go get a tube, order the sweetwater and get some glass and do some testing. Ill let you know how it comes out.
also if im unhappy with the aquarium caulikng, Ill be ordering some of the 3m 5200.
just to let you know what i did...120 gal plywood sealed with drylok masonry waterproofer/ge clear silicone 1 windows and doors to seal seams and attach glass. cured drylok is like concrete and so far the silicone is holding. just been running for 6 weeks but no problems so far. i did drylok because the only available sealer here that has been proven is west systems 105 and it's expensive which i intend to use when i go bigger and besides i want to try myself how long drylok would last, i built 2 same sized tanks just in case it leaks at least i have a backup. a gallon ($22.41) was enough to seal two tanks. i do not recommend this still unproven drylok method, just thought it might help. just a few months into the hobby but was so hooked i don't see myself slowing down.
3M 5200 is available in squeeze tubes at Lowes and HD as well as most boating stores. They also make 4200 which is nearly as strong but can be removed if necesary. I used 5200 to attach a transducer to my boat and when the 'ducer got ripped off a chunk of fibreglass came with it. Probably about 50 times stronger than the average person needs to secure a veiwing window even if it does not rest on a frame.
Some here have used it and not had problems with leeching chemicals, but the stuff would not grow mold or algae on my boat so I think it may have mildewcides in it. Might check with the manufacturer to be sure.