Setting up a used 450 gallon tank

[Egon]

I run my tap water through a sediment filter, 2 carbon, and 2 DI's. My lfs told me that the copper pipe I was going to use would put copper in the water. Of course I do have a ray and discus. Just my 2 cents.
Your tank looks awesome! I wish I had the room, but I'm maxed out with my 240.

The thing about the copper pipe is it's everywhere in my house, so adding another 20 feet or so of copper piping going to my fish tank really wont increase the time the water spends in copper pipe.

PEX tubing...way easier to work with than copper.

I think Egon already knows this though, since he's the one that told me about it.

Yes I just started using PEX tubing and I love it!

 

[sunvalley aquarist]

The thing about the copper pipe is it's everywhere in my house, so adding another 20 feet or so of copper piping going to my fish tank really wont increase the time the water spends in copper pipe.

However, if you plumb your sediment, carbon, and DI filtration at the end of the copper, the filters should pull out all the unwanted elements. That's how I have mine plumbed.

 

[LaiistCRD]

Wicked, lovin it!

 

[Egon]

The thing about the copper pipe is it's everywhere in my house, so adding another 20 feet or so of copper piping going to my fish tank really wont increase the time the water spends in copper pipe.

However, if you plumb your sediment, carbon, and DI filtration at the end of the copper, the filters should pull out all the unwanted elements. That's how I have mine plumbed.

I don't use any filtration on the new water going into the tank. I just use untreated Phoenix tap water directly into the tank weird I know, go figure............all that chlorine, chlorimins (spell), and now copper unfiltered going straight into the tank. What would your LFS say about that? How would they sell their water treatment products if people new????

Just having a bit of fun. Personally I don't see a reason to filter tap water so I don't. Also this subject has been covered elsewhere so no reason to beat a dead horse. I'm happy with my system and it seems to work. Believe me I'm not saving any money in this hobby. I just spend the money on bigger tanks and more expensive fish Filtering tap water is not high on my priority list.

This is not recommended in all areas! If you have to drink bottled water because your tap water can make you sick it will also make your pets/fish sick.

I hope this info helps some of you guys.

 

[deeboi]

i love it. this looks just like my build, only taller. do you have a close up of your sumps? the plumbing on those look tricky.

 

[Egon]

i love it. this looks just like my build, only taller. do you have a close up of your sumps? the plumbing on those look tricky.

What do you need a picture of? - I love showing this off
I have two sumps (bad idea). The sumps needed to be joined so the water level stays equal. Go with one sump if possible to avoid this issue. The pipe that connects the sumps also runs to the drain and is valved so I can drain the sumps by opening the valve for maintenance or just to clean the sludge off the bottom of the sumps. Above that drain valve is another valve set at about 10", this is the overflow or water level of the sumps. Any water going above the 10" goes directly into the drain when the valve is open. The valve is always open for normal operation. I only close it to keep water from back filling into the sumps when I drain the main tank. The main tank drain is a 1.5 inch line and if open drains the 450 very very fast. ( I only used this drain for set up and test fills)
I trickle about 1 gallon of new water an hour into the main tank and that extra water drains out the sump to my yard. This also compensates for evaporation, I never have to top off my sumps, they are always right at 10". If I lose power or turn the pumps off for feeding the sumps fill to capacity and slowly drain back down to 10". When I turn the pumps on there's enough water capacity left in the sumps to run the filter but the water level drops way down and is slowly (1 gallon and hour) filled back up to the 10" level. No more water changes.
Another feature I added is a drain similar to a washing machine drain that is inside one of the doors in the stand. I shove the end of the python hose in that drain when I'm cleaning the gravel and all that dirty water siphons down the drain and out to the yard, no buckets! If I don't drain too much at one time the water is replenished with the trickle system.
24 gallons a day, 168 gallons a week, no evaporation issues, and very low stress on my fish vs.. a large 168 gallon change once a week. Can't beat it.

 

[deeboi]

so you're saying go with one sump? i'm still in the plumbing stage looking how i want to plumb this tank. i was thinking of running one sump, but using two drains from each side of the tank, plumbed to the sump. i was trying to see how you plumbed your intakes, looks like your tank has overflows. i'm probably making this over complicated but i want to make sure, so i can sort of "set it, and forget." and about your sumps, i was just noticing the white pvc piping, wondering how it works. looks like some intricate spray bar.

 

[SpeshulEd]

I have 3 drains on my 450g, all drain into one sump.

My tank had holes in the middle of the bottom as opposed to the back, so I put a 90 degree bend in, ran pipe to the back of the tank, put another 90 degree bend in, and then ran pipe to the top. I put a wider diameter pipe over the pipe that runs up to the top. The wider pipe sticks out of the water. This forces the water to be sucked in from the bottom the tank, keeping the bottom of the tank clean. Not sure if that makes sense or not.

All 3 drains/intakes/overflow tubes run to the sump and into a filter sock. The water is then pumped back to the tank. One pipe comes off the pump and then is split to returns on each side of the tank.

You should only need one sump, just make sure it's big enough to handle all your fish.

 

[deeboi]

I have 3 drains on my 450g, all drain into one sump.

My tank had holes in the middle of the bottom as opposed to the back, so I put a 90 degree bend in, ran pipe to the back of the tank, put another 90 degree bend in, and then ran pipe to the top. I put a wider diameter pipe over the pipe that runs up to the top. The wider pipe sticks out of the water. This forces the water to be sucked in from the bottom the tank, keeping the bottom of the tank clean. Not sure if that makes sense or not.

All 3 drains/intakes/overflow tubes run to the sump and into a filter sock. The water is then pumped back to the tank. One pipe comes off the pump and then is split to returns on each side of the tank.

You should only need one sump, just make sure it's big enough to handle all your fish.

how did you plumb your returns? also how did you make it so the returns break their syphon. in one of my tanks the return goes over the edge, and i drilled it on the inside to break the syphon. what i'm working with is direct holes at the top of the tank, which i'm gonna use as returns, but...looking for a way to make sure the returns don't syphon/overflow the sump.

sorry no de-rail..

 

[SpeshulEd]

The larger plastic tubing over the smaller plastic tubing, floats for the most part. As the water level drops in the tank, the larger tubes sink, when enough water drains out of the tank, it stops automatically. The inner/smaller plastic tubing goes almost to the top of the tank, so the water only has to drop about a 1/4" before the water stops flowing.

I've attached a crappy drawing. Hopefully it helps a bit.

How far are the holes down from the top of the tank. You may just need to have a large enough sump to let water run into it until it gets below the holes.

There may be some kind of special valve that would do the trick though.

I'm still learning too.