Setting up overflow. Have a few questions.

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MonsterFishCreeper

Candiru
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Sep 30, 2015
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I'm sitting up a 75 gallon with a corner overflow. This was previously a salt set up. The plumbing that came with it was a 3/4 bulkhead, 1" bulkhead, a return pipe with two output nozzles, but no overflow pipe. Here's what I need to know.

Should I just take a 1" piece of PVC and drill a bunch of holes in it for the water to overflow down into the sump? If not what should I do.

Is a spray bar better than the dual nozzle job that came with the tank. I can make one easily with a drilled PVC pipe and an end cap so I'll do whatever is best.

There were two gaskets siliconed to the inside of the overflow. One popped out and the other is in place. Should I take them both out and re-silicone them to the bottom of the inside of the overflow. Do they even need silicone?

Does the bulkhead face need silicone?
 
That looks like the overflow/drain pipe. Most likely one bulkhead for drain and the other return? The size of each PVC may confirm that.
 
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The holes on the top of the standpipe is for emergency siphon break. Once the waterline hits that hole, air will hit it and the siphon stops and doesn't empty more water in your sump.
 
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The holes on the top of the standpipe is for emergency siphon break. Once the waterline hits that hole, air will hit it and the siphon stops and doesn't empty more water in your sump.

Sorry do you mean the hole at the very top of the T which can't be seen in the photo or the hole you can see in the photo sort of below the tee?

I guess what I'm confused about is how water will overflow up through the upside down elbow when the hole in the side seems to be below the top of the elbow. It sort of seems like that won't allow the water to get suction?
 
Ok. Let me explain step by step. The bottom of the stand pipe gets attached to the bulkhead in your overflow. Since it's the drain, you prolly don't need to cement it to the bulkhead. My bulkheads are threaded. Your's, I'm assuming are slip. The water line will be above the elbow with the siphon guard. That big hole right below the T is the emergency siphon break. On the top of the standpipe, can't see it in the photo but there should be a smaller hole. This smaller hole allows are to be pushed up and out of the standpipe. The hole size will also effect the water level of the tank.

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Oh I see so the water is above those holes that makes sense. So if the water level drops below those holes it breaks the syphon.
 
Ok so last two questions. The overflow/drain in the picture slides up and down in the middle. This I assume, is just to set the water level inside the overflow chamber. Is there any benefit to having it higher or lower?

Second question. Can I just use flexible tubing from Home Depot for the drain/return to and from my sump. Is any of the rubber/silicone flex tubing in the plumbin isle safe to use?
 
Yes that's to adjust the height. The higher the water lvl the more water capacity of your tank. More water, more stable. Some like it lower for asthetics and it can help the return pipe act like a waterfall and break the water surface for more oxygenated water.

You can use flex tubing but just make sure to use the good anti kink ones. Kinks in a sump system can be a nightmare. I haven't used flex tubing in awhile so maybe someone else can help you with that. I use PVC to connect all my plumbing.
 
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