Sheding skin

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Raynado Raynado chill! I agree he should have sorted this stuff out before he got the fish but I dont think the fish is suffering If anything he is probaly more stressed than the fish I have seen this also with my oscars and other cichlids when they get injured or bumped around in a net they produce a mucas I think it is them replenishing their slime coat to help the healing process I would not worry aros are hardy
 
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What did you test with? Liquid tests or test strips? Strips can be inaccurate.

Slime coats recover quickly in my experience. Keep stress to a minimum and hopefully it'll recover
 
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Kelly_Aquatics said:
Raynado Raynado chill! I agree he should have sorted this stuff out before he got the fish but I dont think the fish is suffering If anything he is probaly more stressed than the fish I have seen this also with my oscars and other cichlids when they get injured or bumped around in a net they produce a mucas I think it is them replenishing their slime coat to help the healing process I would not worry aros are hardy
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I’ve learned that it’s best to stay out of topics you don’t know. Neither of us have kept Arowanas to maturity so we should stay quiet and observe rather than be vocal
 
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Relax Raynado, listen to jjohnwm, all good this am, the floating mucus is 95% gone, water is almost clear and the fishes color is a bit darker. The gold is more prominent. I guess the salt did help. It's more sensitive moving an older Arowana as compared to a younger Arowana. I got a Jardini (8 mo. old) last week and it took less than 24 hrs before it started eating and feeling comfortable. I have no idea how old this one is, it arrived a week ago (from malaysia) and again moved from the pet store to my place. Maybe too much moving in a short period of time. It's 9" ~ 10" long, so I guess somewhere between 1 ~1.5 yrs old. It pains me more to see it suffering, rest assured, I'm doing everything there is that needs to be done, including gathering every bit of info that might help.
 
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What did you test with? Liquid tests or test strips? Strips can be inaccurate

I used API liquid test kit. Not quite sure of the accuracy. I tested the tap water, it turned out fine pH7, Amonia, Nitrite 0 ppm & Nitrate 0 ppm. I was running the tank empty for 2 weeks, I had no clue when the fish would arrive, I bought it as soon as the store owner posted it, it may sound careless, not making sure the conditions are perfect, but couldn't resist the opportunity, these things go fast, really fast. Not sure where the traces of Amonia and Nitrite came from? Would it be wise to add PRIME (seachem), with the fish in the tank already, or should I just leave it like that for now?
 
If you were running the tank empty for two weeks, were you "feeding" your bacteria with ammonia? If not, there would be a significant die-off or at least "die-back" during that time which would result in partial loss of cycle; adding a large fish then would inevitably spike your ammonia. The tank would regain its equilibrium much faster than a brand new one, but a blip is going to happen.

I'd be watching the levels like a hawk until they drop, and would expect that some water changes will be needed to keep the fish comfortable during this period. Minimal or no feeding for the next few days or couple weeks. I don't have much experience with water conditioners (I'm on a well) or bottled bacteria, but apparently Prime helps temporarily de-toxify the ammonia? We need an MFK chemist to weight in here...
 
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jjohnwm said:
If you were running the tank empty for two weeks, were you "feeding" your bacteria with ammonia? If not, there would be a significant die-off or at least "die-back" during that time which would result in partial loss of cycle; adding a large fish then would inevitably spike your ammonia. The tank would regain its equilibrium much faster than a brand new one, but a blip is going to happen.

I'd be watching the levels like a hawk until they drop, and would expect that some water changes will be needed to keep the fish comfortable during this period. Minimal or no feeding for the next few days or couple weeks. I don't have much experience with water conditioners (I'm on a well) or bottled bacteria, but apparently Prime helps temporarily de-toxify the ammonia? We need an MFK chemist to weight in here...

copy that, thanks.
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Update: I ran the tank on Seachem PRIME and STABILITY, for a week. I wasn't a believer of water additives, but since I was desperate and I read that there are no harmful substance for both water conditioners, I gave it a go and glad I did. The water parameters are now way better, infact it is ideal. Couldn't expect more since I tested the local water supply and it registered the same. fish seems healthy, fed shrimp, crickets and meal worms (super worms) for a few days before I started feeding pellets. It hasn't eaten the pellets for a week now, after it tasted live insects, it refused to eat processed food. I thought that a more balance diet would include pellets and occational insects, worms, fish and shrimp meat so I'll have to wait it out a bit longer. When it starves, hopefully it'll start eating again.
 
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