Silver in Trouble, Please Help

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
cgoldsmith_99;645879; said:
I do water changes religiously every 2 weeks. I test the water once a month.

If it is pH shock, should I try slowly changing the water with a higher pH to try and get it back up to 7?

Since he was fine before the water change and now the next morning after, it seems likely it is something to do with that. I am just suprised the other fish are fine if it is a water quality issue. I would've expected the clown loaches or frontosas (who I know like a higher pH) to be suffering and not my aro.

The fish stock has not changed in months except for a rope fish that was introduced about 2 weeks ago.

Regarding question about food, I feed the aro once every 2-3 days and he eats frozen krill or market shrimp. Last ate fine 2 days ago.

whats the pH of the tap?

get it to that, gradually, once youve done that, do 50% water changes a week. do twice that in the summer when its alot warmer

your aro with thrive at the pH of the tap, even if its high, my aros pH is at 8.4, which is the pH of the my tap, and more water changes are better! if you do it right! cosistency is the name of the game, you will struggle with buffers and what not trying to get the pH to your desire but if you slip up the fish pay for it.

your nitrate are at 5ppms? i have a hard tiem believing that...

oh and if frozen krill and shrimp are the diet add a suppliment such as vitachem, cant prove it, but i suspect that some kind of defiency is involved with a frozen diet..
 
whats the pH of the tap?

get it to that, gradually, once youve done that, do 50% water changes a week. do twice that in the summer when its alot warmer

your aro with thrive at the pH of the tap, even if its high, my aros pH is at 8.4, which is the pH of the my tap, and more water changes are better! if you do it right! cosistency is the name of the game, you will struggle with buffers and what not trying to get the pH to your desire but if you slip up the fish pay for it.

your nitrate are at 5ppms? i have a hard tiem believing that...

oh and if frozen krill and shrimp are the diet add a suppliment such as vitachem, cant prove it, but i suspect that some kind of defiency is involved with a frozen diet..

Well said.
I was under the immpression he had some wounds, we all know how aro like to jump. I'm thinking ph shock aswell or possibly ammonia burn or even chlorline burn. Some conditioners are dangerous mostly the pond type they require open surface area to work safely - no open water for air circulation equals high ammonia. Very hard to help with out picture. What do you use for a water conditioner to remove chlorine and or chloramine?
 
If it is pH shock best thing right now is to leave the pH level at 6.6. If you try to move to 7.0 or 7.4 to quickly you could shock again. Do a 10% water change daily for the next two weeks that should adjust from 6.6 to your tap water.

I gotta agree with Delgado, stop messing with the pH buffers your fish will do fine at the pH of your tap. And the 50% W/C would be very benefical.
 
Wow, my heart aches to hear about the arow. They are my favorite fish. It sounds like you are in good hands. I wish you and your arow the best of luck. Hope he pulls through.
 
Wanted to thank everyone for their advice on this board, unfortunately it did not save my prize fish. After 1 day putting up a strong fight, he passed.

As recommended I will stear clear of the pH buffers from this point forward.

My monster tank looks so bare...
 
Sorry for your loss. It sux to loose a prize fish. I lost an aro a few months ago to a jump, so I know how you feel.
 
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