Simple Auto Top Off (ATO), inexpensive too!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I bought them at a local surplus store called Skycraft. I'm not sure if they sell over the internet but they always have these float switches. I stocked up on them when I discovered they had them. Check around your area for surplus stores. They have been around for a while so they should be fairly common in the surplus stores.
 
CHOMPERS;3449442; said:
Ok, that makes sense now. Your bottom float switch is 'normally open' or NO and the top float switch is 'normally closed' or NC. That's what I was explaining when I said to take the float off the switch and reinstall it onto the switch upside down. That converts a NO float switch to a NC switch.
Click to expand...
O.K.
Both floats down is pump on, completed circuit...
if either of them get lifted from water the pump shuts off..
thats why the one is installed higher..
if you connect two of the wires from the floats together your just making one long circuit.. if either go up it brakes the flow of electricity..

the higher one is the back up..
 
I don't know of any 'surplus' component stores in my area.
 
Really the only thing hard to find is the float switches with wires!!
The wires can come from Homedepot as does the plug and electrical box..
The relay (make sure it's the 12 volt one) is at RADIO SHACK..
And you can get a 12 volt converter (used)at any second hand store for like 1.99 each or cheeper.
Now you can hook one up the "dangerous" way..
Just cut one side of your pump cord and put the float switch inline with the plug >>>
But then your putting 120V into your sump, if the float switch leaks electricity!
 
Are the float switches made to be completely submersible?? I think I would like to leave out the relay and converter and create an ATO the "dangerous" way. As long as you waterproof the floatswitch and use a low powered pump like an aqualifter it seems like the relay and converter could be considered unnecessary, right?
 
BTB0923;3455418; said:
Are the float switches made to be completely submersible?? I think I would like to leave out the relay and converter and create an ATO the "dangerous" way. As long as you waterproof the floatswitch and use a low powered pump like an aqualifter it seems like the relay and converter could be considered unnecessary, right?
Click to expand...
The float switches are made to have the top sticking out of the water..
Even a low powered pump still has 110V going to it from the wall..
BE CAREFULL MAN..
Just go spend the extra 20 bucks and get the proper parts
outlet box = 1-2$
outlet plug = 1 dollar
plug for the wall w/ wire = 3 bucks (or cut on plug off an old broken pump or appliance then it's free)
12v converter = 2 bucks from the second hand store
relay= 8.95 radio shack.
 
Ok you are right, better to put in a little extra time and effort than risk the health of my tank...and mine for that matter.

My only concern is the water level in the sump when doing water changes. When the power is cut to my main pump the power will also be cut to the float switches...but then at least one will become fully submerged in the sump when water from the display tank drains. When the power goes back on the float switch will be fully submerged for at least a few seconds when the water is pumped back into the display tank. Does this mean I have to somehow waterproof the float switches??
 
no they are safe to be under water
You really should go to GUITAR CENTER and get a 32$ PC-100a DJ strip
LIKE THIS. Then you can switch off everything for water changes
ie: skimmer, ATO,return pump, Power heads..
They are very well built and can pay 5 buck for 12 month replacement insurance..
They are my best friends. (I have two) No more chasing wires to unplug!
They are just a glorified power strip with switches..
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