slowing down a mag drive 2400...if possible

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I put a Bypass on my ma drive 9.5 for 2 reasons. One to combat the power of the pump (if i need to), an Two so I dont have to unplug the pump each time I do a water change. Its a simle matter of opening two valves an closing the main valve to divert the flow.
 
johnptc;872705; said:
since water in not compressible it takes no energy to build pressure
You are confusing Work and Energy. Work is dependent on displacement but energy is not. You can't use the Principle of Work and Energy on a restricted pump. It violates one of the laws of thermodynamics (can't quote it off hand). (In other words, the math will fail.)

johnptc;872705; said:
to move water you have to add energy to the water to get it moving ( kinetic energy ) like 1/2 m v*v at zero head no
change in height

I can see the engineer or physicist in there trying to get out. :D

A compressed spring is a good analogy. Compressing the spring requires both work and energy. To keep it compressed by hand, you are not doing anymore work (not laymans definition) but you are still consuming energy.

The pressure created by the pump exerts force on the walls of a pipe. Energy is required to maintain that force. The seemingly easy way to find the energy is to use Statics principles since it can be viewed as no motion as the flow approaches zero. In Statics applications, the sum of all forces equals zero. Unfortunately, if used in the wrong applications false zeros will result as your conclusion. You can't use Statics principles for Thermodynamics problems. :grinno:
 
lol

well, after buying the appropriate odds and ends at the 'po and installing what was recommended (in regards to the t-valve on the return) its still not working properly. i have to almost shut it completely to keep the pump from emptying the sump. i spent the last two hours messing with it and its not working....

and on top of that now my bulkheads are leaking. looks like this tank is going to be torn back down and setup in the garage to play with.
 
can you post some pix of your overflow?
 
wright4lfe;871758; said:
it has a 1in inlet and a 1in outlet. i'm running 1-1/4 pipe from the overflows into the sump and 3/4in from the pump back into the tank. anyone know of a way to get this thing to slow down....or is it destined to go on the for sale/trade sub forum......

:nilly: :cry: :nilly: :cry: :nilly: :cry: :nilly:

I run 2" Pipes x2 on my 250. Your in and out are TOO SMALL :)

I also run a 1.25 in return from my mag 24... I think you bought small stuff for a LARGE pump
 
i will try and steal my sisters camera, mine is broke...
 
"I run 2" Pipes x2 on my 250."

i don't think incoming water is the problem, when i originally bought the tank the guy who owned it had the same set up using a mag drive 700. it worked fine, but it wasn't turning over than fast. me, being the overachiever i am thought "ya know, a MD 2400 would turn the water over a lot faster....that sounds a lot better". i probably should have just gone with the 1200/1800
 
If your pump is draining your sump:D it is the drain to the sump that is too small :) YOUR overflows are not pulling enough water into the sump to facilitate the mag 24 :) Your drains in my opinion are constricted:)
 
Plus you don't want to slow your pump unless you like wasting money on burning them up :)

Granted that this is a hard pump to burn up but still constricting the flow is going to ware on the life of the pump .
 
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