You are just getting it all rong. Firstly I would like to comment on your drawing. Your return lines from the sump appear to end at the base of the tank, is this just how you drawn it or is this what you have done. Even with check valves, the siphoning of the tank water into the sump, and overflowing of the sump seems inevitable in the event of a power cut. Be careful. Secondly I would just like to say that I have reason to believe that your tap water may contain chlorine, and so I would recommend that you pass it through some carbon filters, containing blocks of carbon or gac,'[granulated active carbon'. You can get these vessels and carbon blocks from ro man, and just put them together, attach them to the water pipe with automatic piercing clamp things, and use a small valve to regulate the flow. Last I would like to point out that the rate at which water enters the tank needs to be slow, and you still need a bio and other filtration. If you calculate the flow rate, work it out so that the tank is fully changed around once a week, and put some sponges in the sump for bio and mechanical filtration. Why skip on it when you have all that space in the sump? Tap water is far too cold for tropical fish, and even if you put it in slowley, you still need to heat the tank if the room is cool. It sounds like a bit of a bad idea as you do not seem to know how to do it properly.