So much fuzzy info......bioload

[srt4geezer]

Alright, seen so many opinions about how to figure out bioload, but seems there really isnt an answer. So many variables.
Size of tank, type of filter, type of media, amount of media, tank turnover, in-tank current to keep things churning and avoiding deadspots, type of fish and size of fish.

Sound about right?

300 gallon tank with roighly a 60 gallon sump with around 20-25gallons of water in it at any given time.

How much bioload per bio-filtration methop employed in one tank.

3lbs of sand in a fluidbed filter.
16lbs of mediahome cintered glass media in sump chamber.
3 gallons of k1 doing its rotation in another chamber.

Ehiem 1262 with 5.5' of head.

Kydor 1500 powerhead stirring up bottom.

Trying to figure oit how many fish is right is a shot in the dark and just keep monitoring the water right? So same answer no matter what?

 

[pacu mom]

Theoretically, if you have enough beneficial bacteria to convert ammonia and nitrites, you have enough biological filtration. If you are heavily stocked and have a high bioload, even with adequate biological filtration, you are going to build up nitrates very fast unless you have a denitrator or have a heavily planted tank or a continuous drip system. All the biological and mechanical filtration in the world is not going to lower nitrates....nitrates are lowered by water changes, plants, denitrators.

Determine stocking levels by how quickly nitrates build up and how much time and effort you want to spend reducing nitrates, or go to a continuous drip system. Suggest doing routine testing until you know how quickly nitrate is building up.

 

[pops]

agreed Pacu Mom, there is no set stander-ed to go by, to many variables.

 

[boldtogether]

Don't forget the substrate and any other decor that may be in the tank...all that gets covered with beneficial bacteria....the walls of the sump....point is, there really isn't a difinitive answer. About the only way to know and set a standard would be to remove all the BB from a healthy established tank and dry it out and weigh it....and then do that for every conceivable stock, stock level, filtration, decor, feeding, food fed, lighting, temperature....etc...so, yes, somewhat of a shot in the dark.
So that is why we continually learn....from others that have gone before. The science behind dealing with the waste from our fish is a constant. Properly sizing equipment to achieve a desired affect such as turn over and all that....that remains consistent and constant.
I believe a big part of keeping a healthy tank is common sense and research. Get a couple dozen setups under your belt before you try crazy overstocking and enormous fish and huge aquariums....start out following what has been done before....then venture out after you fully grasp how things work.
I don't even question it anymore...I just do it. How much media do I need? I need enough to be reasonable. It's f the box says 5L per x-gallons then I error on the side of caution and reasonably add say, 1more litre...
The bottom line is try not and over think things to much. You really can't have too much media, or too much filtration. You can have too many fish, too much decor, and to much water movement. ....

 

[srt4geezer]

Yeah. I have a lot of "decor". Big lack of good sized rocks to decorate with so I went with big lumber. 8' tank with big sticks as the primary visual. "

 

[convict360]

Yeah. I have a lot of "decor". Big lack of good sized rocks to decorate with so I went with big lumber. 8' tank with big sticks as the primary visual. " View attachment 1149318

Beautiful tank, decoration is awesome

 

[boldtogether]

Beautiful tank, decoration is awesome

+1....very niice.

 

[convict360]

Theoretically, if you have enough beneficial bacteria to convert ammonia and nitrites, you have enough biological filtration. If you are heavily stocked and have a high bioload, even with adequate biological filtration, you are going to build up nitrates very fast unless you have a denitrator or have a heavily planted tank or a continuous drip system. All the biological and mechanical filtration in the world is not going to lower nitrates....nitrates are lowered by water changes, plants, denitrators.

Determine stocking levels by how quickly nitrates build up and how much time and effort you want to spend reducing nitrates, or go to a continuous drip system. Suggest doing routine testing until you know how quickly nitrate is building up.

strong post, this should be bookmarked for bioload sticky threads.

 

[convict360]

Theoretically, if you have enough beneficial bacteria to convert ammonia and nitrites, you have enough biological filtration. If you are heavily stocked and have a high bioload, even with adequate biological filtration, you are going to build up nitrates very fast unless you have a denitrator or have a heavily planted tank or a continuous drip system. All the biological and mechanical filtration in the world is not going to lower nitrates....nitrates are lowered by water changes, plants, denitrators.

Determine stocking levels by how quickly nitrates build up and how much time and effort you want to spend reducing nitrates, or go to a continuous drip system. Suggest doing routine testing until you know how quickly nitrate is building up.

strong post, this should be bookmarked for bioload sticky threads.

 

[skjl47]

Hello; Plants look to be the plastic variety, so no help with nitrate reduction. Nitrates may be a critical issue over time.

I may have missed it in the previous posts, but understand decay byproducts to be a part of bio-load. Some, including myself for a few decades, are apt to overfeed. This often allows uneaten food bits to become a regular thing in a tank. Back when I was overfeeding the benefits of fasting days became apparent after I spent a long weekend from home. Tanks would look better when I got home. The fish and snails spent the weekend scrounging the bits of extra food. I eventually found that lighter feedings worked quite well.