Starting my first DIY W/D, suggestions needed and welcome

[Frostyone]

So, I'm building a fish room to do a little breeding project and I got a few drilled 20 longs from a member here. I had 2 nice sterilite drawer thingy's that fit perfect in another 20 long (not drilled) that I have. So I'm going to build my first DIY w/d. Here's the plan so far.

What I've done so far:

Cut the top out of one of the sterilite things, siliconed the other to the top of it (sealed around the entire joint with a thick bead of silicon)

Well..........................that's about all I've done so far. I have a finished product in mind, so I thought I'd lay it out here and get some opinons. And if you see anything that could be improved upon please let me know.

I'm going to be plumbing 2, maybe 3 drilled 20 longs to this filter (get to that later)

I'm going to add a bulkhead to the top of the drawer thingy to attach to a single line from the intakes of the other tanks.

The cabinet itself is going to sit on 4" high PVC legs (the pipe in the first picture is going to be used for legs)

Drawer layout: There are 6 in total but won't be using all of them
#1: coarse floss, bottom will have several 1" holes drilled
#2: finer floss drilled with several 1" holes
#3: (media TBD) bottom drilled with several 1/8" (maybe a step larger) holes used as drip plate

Drawers 4-6 are going to be removed and I'm going to build an eggcrate cage that slides in and out (should hold 2-2.5 gallons of bio balls)

I have an extra glass lid laying around and was thinking of cutting it to be used as a baffle in the tank.

Questions:

#1 Do you think 3 tanks is feasible? Or should I just stick with 2?

#2 Seeing as how the cabinet will be sitting 4" above the bottom of the tank would it be beneficial to put some crushed lava rock under there?

#3 Now about the baffle. What is it's purpose? Do I really need one? And if so, how tall should it be?

I also plan on sealing the unit completely with lexan siliconed to the sides and back, then painting the entire cabinet fixture black (I read somewhere that BB grows best in dark areas with highly oxygenated water.

In the third tray I could do more floss, or biomax, or I could use it for carbon or other media like that (I don't really use carbon though unless it's needed)

 

[Frostyone]

For the glass that I can use for the baffle I have 4 1/2" and 7 1/4" tall peices.

 

[Frostyone]

bump, someone please answer my questions!

 

[Mattyou]

Frosty,
You dont need a baffle, 3 tanks will work fine, top drawer with white/blue filter pad bottom 2 with pot scrubbies or bio-balls should provide plenty of bio for 3 20's at the stock levels you have in mind.
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=1341

Those 20's will work with flex hose since they all have barbed fittings, just slip it on and cut to length.

 

[mikeandannie]

IMO I don't think you need a baffle in there, just let it fall down the trays and get pumped back out... inless you want to put a baffle so you can have the pump in a sepert chamber and add some sort of meadia below the trays, also about the trays watch out when they start collecting junk and back up a little it might overflow over the sides and if you don't have enough room on front back side to side it might go right on the floor, but enough holes might help that too, also I think it was Dr Joe, sorry if i'm wrong but he used a bowling ball to concave his trays for that reason, but if you do that I read you have harder time pulling trays out..eggcrate idea sounds cool, but why not just keep the trays in there? good idea all and all I will try to stay up to date if you need any more help..also you asked if that will be enough filtration, I guess it all depends on how much you have flowing threw the 3 tanks..I think you can stuff enough media in there to keep them clean and healty.

 

[Frostyone]

Thanks guys! The 20's are going to be used as FH baby growout tank, I won't be stocking big fish in there, just a bunch of smaller >4" fish. I'm definately going to make an eggcrate cage in liu of using the bottom drawers. And I was thinking about the water backup issue, which is why I'm going to seal the sides and back with lexan sheets, that way if the holes do get gunked up it will overflow in the front and not the sides and back, that should keep the water in the filter.

The bulkheads on there look like 5/8 or 3/4" barbs on the intakes and 1/2 or 3/8 on the returns (haven't measured yet). I was planning on hard plumbing it all with PVC, but if hose will work that'll make things much easier.

So floss in just the first drawer huh? Pot scrubbies in #'s 2 and 3? Then the bio cage with bio-balls.

If I do it that way I'm still going with 1" holes in drawers 1-2 to help with possible clogging (don't think 1" holes will clog very easy) then smaller 1/8 or 1/4" holes in drawer 3 which will function as the drip plate for the bio cage. That way if it does clog it'll be the drawer closest to the tank (less of a chance of water ending up on the floor).

I was also planning on getting a peice of acrylic to fashon a lid to cover the open portion of the tank (to help with evaporation)

How about the lava rock peices under the cabinet? Good idea or overkill?

Now about sizing the return pump for 3 tanks. Keep in mind the size of the return bulkheads, it'll probably be running through 1/2" hose (have to double check the size today) I was thinking a 750GPH pump? Sound about right?

 

[Frostyone]

Ok, went downstairs and got some pics/measurements of the tanks/bulkhead fittings

There are 90 degree hose barb fittings installed in the bulkhead fittings, here are the measurements with and w/o them:

Intake: Inside diameter (I.D.)
I.D. w/ 90 - 9/16"
I.D. w/o 90 - 13/16" = 3/4" PVC for plumbing

Return:
I.D. w/ 90 - 7/16"
I.D. w/o 90 - 9/16" = 1/2" PVC for plumbing

Now I can take the easy/cheap road and just use the 90 fittings and hose, or I can remove the fittings (reduce restriction) and hard plumb everything with PVC.

Since they are FH's I'll be growing they will be heavily fed. What turnover rate should I be shooting for, and which of the above options would be better ? (I don't mind spending a little money on PVC if the perofrmance benefits are worth it)
In other words if this were your setup which route would you take?

 

[Frostyone]

Here's a quick photoshop diagram of how I envision hooking it up going the PVC route.

May need to click on it to enlarge it.

 

[Frostyone]

Here are some pictures of the fish room. Obviously the layout is going to change since I'm going to do all 3 tanks. The 3 20's will go on top of the long leg of the workbench, I'll move the 2 10 gallons (and I got another over the weekend so 3 in total) will go on the bottom shelf of the smaller left side leg of the bench, and the 30 gallon will go on the bottom shelf, right under where it resides now. The W/D will go under the right side of the longer leg near the folding table (yes this is my laundry room too)

This will leave the top of the left side free for a 60" big tank

 

[jcardona1]

looking good man!!! seems like you're on the right track. im not familiar with multiple tank setups, but here's some of my random thoughts:

- i think eggcrate at the bottom of each tray sounds good, that way you get good flow through the bottom of each. just cut out the bottom of each tray, leaving a 1/2" rim all the way around and just set the eggcrate on top. easy as pie, and you dont have to drill anything.

- i would just run some filter floss/foam and the pot scrubbies. 2~3 trays of scrubbies should be more than enough. they have great surface area.

- i wouldnt use any other media. just leave the sump area bare so you can keep it clean easily.

- i would stay away from lava rock. i personally hate it. it clogs easily, has poor surface area compared to scrubbies, and when it clogs its just like having plain gravel in there.

- intake line: i would make this into an overflow. since the intake is below the surface, youre gonna need a check valve cause you'll flood the sump when the power is turned off.

what i would do is add a 90 degree elbow on the inside of the intake and point it up. then just add a long piece of pvc pipe and cut it where you want your water level. doing this, it will keep the surface clear of junk, and keep the water level in your tanks always full. otherwise, youd have to add water to each tank. this way, you only add water to the sump as its needed. and you dont have to worry about no check valves.

just make sure youre sump is large enough to hold the extra water when you turn the water off. this is what i would do if it were my setup