Stocking Help

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Another perspective. A 55G can work for 3 species of mixed gender mbuna. Avoid yellow labs with red zebras...they will crossbreed even if you are not trying to breed. Avoid kenyi in a 55G. Definitely fill the tank with rocks. Think in terms of something like this:
1m:4f Metriaclima estherae red zebra
1m:4f Cynotilapia sp. hara
1m:4f Labidochromis caeruleus Nkhata or Labidochromis sp. Perlmutt

No need for scavengers if you don't overfeed, but if you want a bottom dweller I would stick with Synodontis lucipinnis (sold as dwarf Petricola) group of 5.
 
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Deadeye said:
Mbunas are naturally aggressive to anything that moves. They don’t like going far from their territories for fear that someone will steal it, and with a lot of fish, it makes that worry higher. They also have a lot more targets to pick from when feeling mean. Too few and the dominant fish will likely always go on a killing spree. If you want more, you are going to want a lot of hiding spots, or none at all.
I would do all males of different species, or only zebras and try to get as many females as possible. I have kept two male zebras together, the first chance the dominant one had (after a territory change) it killed the other guy. A few months later I changed the territories, and the subdominant auratus killed the dominant zebra.
Only get fish from the same aggression bracket, if you are keeping zebra, good tankmates are auratus, johanni, crabro, kenyi, demansoni, etc.
No crayfish or other crustaceans, once they molt its game over.
Good scavengers are larger loaches (skunk, sun, redfin), synodontis catfish, bristle nose plecos, and in some cases red tail/rainbow sharks. No guarantees on anything though, mbunas can be anywhere from tankmate friendly to full dovii.
I feed mine cichlid pellets and they will occasionally graze on algae, though I haven’t seen much true vegetarian behavior.
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Alright, can I have different zebra cichlids with red zebra cichlids? Also, what is your opinion on rubber nose to plecostomus, I’ve heard they’re much better at getting algae and can take more of a beating. I’m definitely gonna look into that catfish, what I think I’m going to do is my one red zebra male and as many different colors of other zebra females, then maybe two of those catfish and a rubber nosed. I’m buying a ton more hiding spots and hardy plants and I put magnolia leaves in last night.
 
Other zebra species should be fine, it really is up to the individual. I haven’t kept the other zebra species, but I believe they are pretty much the same just different colors. Different colors = less of a target though. Rubber lip can work, though the one I have heard the most success with is bn. They are typically recommended due to a tolerance for the rift lake water and being very bony, also one of the best plecos for algae control.
 
Deadeye said:
Other zebra species should be fine, it really is up to the individual. I haven’t kept the other zebra species, but I believe they are pretty much the same just different colors. Different colors = less of a target though. Rubber lip can work, though the one I have heard the most success with is bn. They are typically recommended due to a tolerance for the rift lake water and being very bony, also one of the best plecos for algae control.
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So here’s what I got on my list in the next three months (hopefully I can find babies or I can power grow my RZ)


Fish tank stocking 45 g



1 Bristle Nosed Pleco
Female red zebra Cichlid
3 synodontis catfish

And then if there is room or I decided to diversify and change up stocking.
1 Male 4 female blue zebra cichlid
1 male 4 female ob red zebra cichlid
 
_bsafarijoe said:
So here’s what I got on my list in the next three months (hopefully I can find babies or I can power grow my RZ)


Fish tank stocking 45 g



1 Bristle Nosed Pleco
Female red zebra Cichlid
3 synodontis catfish

And then if there is room or I decided to diversify and change up stocking.
1 Male 4 female blue zebra cichlid
1 male 4 female ob red zebra cichlid
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7 female RZ
 
duanes said:
Metriaclimia estherae, males are usually blue , females red (orange, yellow etc)
In nature about 90% of the diet is algae.
pH 7.5-8.5
temps in the mid 70sF, higher temps in the high 80s shorten their 3-5year life span
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To add on the color, it’s not really true blue like in a cobalt, but orange with a blue hue. All of my males have been mostly orange with almost no blue.
 
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Deadeye said:
To add on the color, it’s not really true blue like in a cobalt, but orange with a blue hue. All of my males have been mostly orange with almost no blue.
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Yeah I know, I like the look of that duller color.
 
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