Stocking idea for 300-500 gallon Aquarium

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
It could. Nothing is set in stone. Imo stocking is really just a function of tank size, compatibility, and maintenance imo. So i would say the tank would work, the fish are somewhat compatible in that tank, but your big question is maintenance. Start thinking in terms of "bioload". The more fish in your tank and the more you feed, the quicker your water chemistry changes and pollutants build up so you will have to do more and more water changes to keep your fish healthy.

So basically, imo, as long as your water quality is good and your fish are healthy and happy, you can keep as many fish as you want so long as they're not too big for the tank.

Anytime you're putting big spiny fish like plecos, bichirs, and catfish together you have to consider territoriality when the fish mature. When they get big they will be brushing fins a lot in that tank, and if you get a real prick of a fish theres always the potential for murder. A lot of people think all of a species may act exactly the same, but imo all fish have different personalities and you could end up with a charmer or a prick or an in between.

I think it'd be a good plan to start with a couple of those mentioned fish and work your way up from there. For now, Start with properly setting up your tank. You will need to cycle your tank (again, read up on "nitrogen cycle") before you are ready to go fish shopping.
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After doing some reading on the nitrogen cycle and cycling an aquarium I am unsure which approach to take for cycling a 180 gallon aquarium. Fish in, plants or fish-less?
 
After doing some reading on the nitrogen cycle and cycling an aquarium I am unsure which approach to take for cycling a 180 gallon aquarium. Fish in, plants or fish-less?

Plants would be most difficult. I've never had great success with fishless cycling personally. I think fish in is quickest, simplest, most effective. Here's my procedure:

1. Fill tank with water, dechlorinate it.
2. Add 10 neon tetras to your 180 gallon tank.
3. Feed very sparingly for 2-4 weeks. Do not change any water.
4. Periodically check your water parameters with a quality test kit. When you read 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite for a few consecutive days, you are done cycling. They have to be absolutely zero though. If you're reading any trace of color for ammonia or nitrite at all it is still not ready to add fish.

I sorta lied. The very easiest way to cycle a tank is simply to seed the filter with already cycled, "seasoned" bio-media from another established tank (maybe a friend's or lfs). By doing this you're effectively just transferring all of the beneficial bacteria colonies you need to your new tank. I haven't had to cycle a tank for a very long time.
 
There's a lot of good info on this forum already about cycling. The process just noted from backfromthedead is how i was always told to do it for years as well but have recently learned there's no harm in doing water changes during a cycle and can help your fish. Also i used zebra danios because they're hardier in my opinion, and cheaper here. My LFS won't give out or sell used media anymore because they sell bottled bacteria. Which i recently tried and had success with. I used Dr. tims, and a new user to it but it definitely shortened my cycle to 3 weeks instead of a couple months. I also am still unclear on how many fish to add and at what time when using the bottled stuff.
 
There's a lot of good info on this forum already about cycling. The process just noted from backfromthedead is how i was always told to do it for years as well but have recently learned there's no harm in doing water changes during a cycle and can help your fish. Also i used zebra danios because they're hardier in my opinion, and cheaper here. My LFS won't give out or sell used media anymore because they sell bottled bacteria. Which i recently tried and had success with. I used Dr. tims, and a new user to it but it definitely shortened my cycle to 3 weeks instead of a couple months. I also am still unclear on how many fish to add and at what time when using the bottled stuff.

If you're experiencing an extreme ammonia or nitrite spike is the only reason I'd change water during cycling. Performing water changes always alters your water chemistry at least a bit and will only stall the initial cycling process ime.

The whole point, imo, is to very very slowly build up pollutants to a level that would simulate the levels of an active monster fish.
 
Check out the thread below. I thought the same thing until recently. There's about as many opinions on cycling as there are fishkeepers. My advice is keep it cheap and be patient.

 
Check out the thread below. I thought the same thing until recently. There's about as many opinions on cycling as there are fishkeepers. My advice is keep it cheap and be patient.


Funny. I thought as you did until somewhat recently too, you could probably even find some old posts of mine here advocating a lot of water changes during cycling.

I'm a much better keeper now and agree to disagree with you.
 
Plants would be most difficult. I've never had great success with fishless cycling personally. I think fish in is quickest, simplest, most effective. Here's my procedure:

1. Fill tank with water, dechlorinate it.
2. Add 10 neon tetras to your 180 gallon tank.
3. Feed very sparingly for 2-4 weeks. Do not change any water.
4. Periodically check your water parameters with a quality test kit. When you read 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite for a few consecutive days, you are done cycling. They have to be absolutely zero though. If you're reading any trace of color for ammonia or nitrite at all it is still not ready to add fish.

I sorta lied. The very easiest way to cycle a tank is simply to seed the filter with already cycled, "seasoned" bio-media from another established tank (maybe a friend's or lfs). By doing this you're effectively just transferring all of the beneficial bacteria colonies you need to your new tank. I haven't had to cycle a tank for a very long time.
Thank you for your helpful information and I once again would like to ask another question. Would I be able to have any plants in this tank? I’ve heard that Oscars usually uproot any plants in the tank
 
Thank you for your helpful information and I once again would like to ask another question. Would I be able to have any plants in this tank? I’ve heard that Oscars usually uproot any plants in the tank

Oh you can have them in there...very briefly lol. You heard correct I believe it is instinctual hunting/foraging behavior for a lot of cichlids to uproot plants in search of prey or maybe even breeding/spawning related.
 
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