Stupid newbie questions about water and cycling

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Yeah, and keep temps stables at around 73-75.; Ph should be around 7.5-8 ideally. Good flow, high oxygen levels good too. Ensure you are providing either fish (small and a few) or ammonia directly to feed the bacteria. If you are using fish in cycle please don't feed daily. Once every other day or once every third day is good enough. And only a small amount of food, overfeeding can cause a spike and harm the fish.
ok so i need to feed the bacteria ammonia if im doing a no fish cyle
 
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Yeah, and keep temps stables at around 73-75.; Ph should be around 7.5-8 ideally. Good flow, high oxygen levels good too. Ensure you are providing either fish (small and a few) or ammonia directly to feed the bacteria. If you are using fish in cycle please don't feed daily. Once every other day or once every third day is good enough. And only a small amount of food, overfeeding can cause a spike and harm the fish.
last question. is ph the only thing i need to measure? do I just purchase some measuring strips?
 
No pH really isn't an issue except under rare circumstances (If you have fry or are breeding it can be a real issue.) Most fish can handle a very wide range of pH (5.0 - 9.5, some even wider like 4.5-10.5.) Ask your local water department what your pH and water hardness is (kh) in case people ask.

However, you do need to measure ammonia, nitrites and nitrates.

The first 2 should be zero and should be measured whenever the fish are acting strange and whenever the tank is new.

The second should not be zero, but should not go higher than 40-50, but preferably should be kept under 20. Ideal is below 10, but most people never have ideal and still have a fine tank. Measure that before a water change. If it keeps getting too high, do more frequent or larger water changes.
 
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No pH really isn't an issue. Under rare circumstances (like fry or breeding it can be a real issue.) Ask you local water department what your pH and water hardness is (kh) in case people ask.

However, you do need to measure ammonia, nitrites and nitrates.

The first 2 should be zero and should be measured whenever the fish are acting strange and whenever the tank is new.

The second should not be zero, but should not go higher than 40-50, but preferably should be kept under 20. Ideal is below 10, but most people never have ideal and still have a fine tank. Measure that before a water change. If it keeps getting too high, do more frequent or larger water changes.
so cycling makes sure that ammonia and nitrites are at 0
 
A fully cycled tank will have zero for both numbers, correct. And to repeat, always add prime before you add the new water and never wash your filters under tap water, as not only can the chlorine kill fish, but it can kill bacteria. It can turn a cycled tank into an uncycled one.

Just take a bucket of water out of the tank, and rinse filters (very lightly!) in the water. Think of a gentle swish in the water, not a vigorous shaking.

Filters only need to be cleaned when nearly clogged, which depends on the tank, but you'll see what I mean when you do it. Caked on and slimy like mud is way too long between cleanings. But when the filter looks barely dirty, that's way too soon.

If it's floss, toss it and replace, but don't clean the rest of the filter at the same time you dispose of the floss. Wait until new floss starts to show a little dirt, then you can clean the other parts.
 
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A fully cycled tank will have zero for both numbers, correct. And to repeat, always add prime before you add the new water and never wash your filters under tap water, as not only can the chlorine kill fish, but it can kill bacteria. It can turn a cycled tank into an uncycled one.
alright, so i get my filter setup, add dechlorinator and then put in the correct amount of ATM Colony nitrifying bacteria. then do i put in ammonia? also ive read about putting in some dead shrimp to do something?
 
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