suggestions for a medium size boa/python

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If you wanted a smaller python you could go with spotted or childrens pythons.
 
Allways thought a snake should be able to fully stretch out in its cage but i suppose they are snakes that being said there pretty flexible :)

Just had a thought the cage will have a plexiglass window that will be sealed in place so If i got a rainbow with all the humidity do you think the Window would fog up and be hard to see through if so what could i do to prevent this i know that there are products that can keep glass from fogging like on rifle scoops but these are expensive are there cheap products i could use that are snake safe
 
If the window is colder than the humid air inside the cage, condensation will form on the inside. I've never had problems with condensation unless the cage humidity was way too high. Plus, good ventilation also helps a lot. I think if your cage keeps fogging up, something's usually wrong.
 
I've read that for rainbow boas it should be around 75% and around 40%-50% for bloods and carpets
 
I have kept bloods carpets BRB and many others. The bloods and BRB like it humid. When I had them I would keep them in a glass tank and cover some of the top to keep the humidity in. The glass WILL fog up....what I would do is cover to the back of the tank to sorta vent the front so it would stay semi clear. They have something called FOGX like RAINX and it might work...never tried. Carpets are awesome too...hard desison all of the ones listed here are cool in there own way. BRB are awesome in the sun...they call them rainbow for a reason. Bloods are FAT and the red bloods are crazy in color. Black and yellow of a Jungle....shoot man I dont know.....

Build a bigger cage and get them all...thats what I would do lol. Buuuut my wife HATES snakes....anything but snakes...so my snake days are over I guess :(
 
I would recommend not using any anti-fog chemicals in your snake cage. FogX isn't made to be used on something that will frequently come into contact with an animal's mouth. It's better to have a healthy snake that you can't see than it is to have a sick snake that you can see.

Humidity should be mid-50s to mid-60s for bloods. Temps are best in the low 80s. Some people have a hot spot in the high 80s, but no thermal gradient is necessary as long as there is a good ambient temperature.

I would say bloods are heavy-bodied rather than fat. 'Fat' gives the impression that you should feed your blood the biggest rat it can eat every week until you have a 5.5', 40-lb snake that you can't lift without a struggle. But because of this misconception, and because of their slow metabolism, too many blood pythons are overweight. So feed moderately :)

Carpets are pretty cool too and a bit easier to keep, but bloods are the most rockin snakes ever...at least in my book:nilly:
 
I don't know if this was mentioned, but some of the insular BCI are relatively small and easy to keep. A Hog Island boa shouldn't need anything larger than a 20-long aquarium, at least for a very long time (so I'm told by David Barker). They're also easy to keep and don't eat very much.
 
hmmm still trying to decide i would really like to be able to see my snake what if it put a heat pad on the window to make it warmer then the cage not hot but a few degrees warmer would that help

I found small heat mats that say they stay an even 100F if i say taped on to the out side of the window would that work or would it eventually warp the Acrylic
 
I probably wouldnt put the heat pads on the acrylic it would probably warp it after a while. You shouldnt have to worry too much with the condensation if you just have some ventilation in the cage. I havent ever had any problems and my blood's tank is around 60.
 
okay thanks everyone i'll get the cage up and ready and then i'll make my choice i'll post pics of every thing soon
 
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