Sump system question

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I run several different types of drains, but all my overflows are oversized regardless of the drain style.System noise increases the farther you are between pump and overflow rates. Decreases the closer you are, and as others have said, you can throttle back most pumps with a ball/gate valve on the output.

One easy way to boost your drainage capacity is to setup a Bean or Herbie style drain. Herbie uses 2 drains Bean uses 3. Each uses a gate valve on the main drain line going into the sump.

Basic idea is to throttle the gate valve back to the point where the standpipe in the overflow is fully submerged (full siphon). No air is allowed to enter the drain, so its silent (assuming your standpipes are high) and your drain works much more efficiently. Running at full siphon allows alot more water through the system. The key to the system is the backup drain..... In case of emergency( blockage to the main) it'll take over the capacity of the entire tank. Oversized drains are always used in such a setup.

The main goal with these drains was silence the sumps but the backup drain adds alot of insurance. I'm using a dual Herbie on our 300. Silent and about 99% flood proof.


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That makes sense I'll definitely be setting up 2 drains in the overflow. You made the herbie set up make more sense thanks

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JC1119 beat me to it. I have two 2" drains for ~ 2200GPH (conservative estimate), one is lowerthan the other and controlled with a ball valve to run at a full siphon, the other just has a trickle of water running through it, very quiet.

Redundency is always a good thing when it comes to overflow drains. The figures in the Pipe Size thread are maximums. Factor in restriction from a couple of elbows and a few years worth of crud on the inside of the pipe, then halve it if you want to be safe.
 
Over sizing an overflow is a good thing.
In fact my rule of thumb is to never restrict the overflow, if you want to slow the flow down, you can always throttle back the pump with a ball valve.
All centrifugal pumps can be throttled back on the out, you just never want to restrict the influent to the pump.
An over sized overflow can be a life saver if a dead fish, or debris and plants get stuck in the overflow, if its large enough, water can still move thru.
If the overflow pipe is smaller, it's easy to get plugged, and end up with a flooded room, and a burned out pump.

THIS!!!

I just thought I happend to have misplaced an oscar for about a week :( I figure it out an hour before I had left for a fishing trip for a week. He made it through my DIY 1 1/2'' over flow down and was living in the sump. I only checked the socks. I have no clue how he made it out of the sock tbh. Black oscar in a black sump was hard to get him out lol. Anyway the bigger the better. You best believe its netted now so nothing large can get in lol.
 
Thanks to everyone for the posts, I frickin love this site, I always get answers very quickly. I'm thinking I'm going to go with two 2" overflow pipes, set up herbie style lol(why is it called herbie style), and I'm going to do my best to set it up with 45 degree angles Wich I should only need two angles. That way my water isn't slowed down to much going into my sump

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Thanks to everyone for the posts, I frickin love this site, I always get answers very quickly. I'm thinking I'm going to go with two 2" overflow pipes, set up herbie style lol(why is it called herbie style), and I'm going to do my best to set it up with 45 degree angles Wich I should only need two angles. That way my water isn't slowed down to much going into my sump

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I have my backups 45'd and it works well.

Herbie, came up with the design back in 2004

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=344892

keep in mind while reading that he met ALOT of resistance from fellow reefers back then lol. They tried to shoot him down, but his design works very well.
 
That's pretty cool, thanks for the link. I'm pumped to start working on this project

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