Taking pictures of moving fish?????
- Thread starter CichlidsRool
- Start date
...I bet I have a half of gig to every keeper shot!
I have a 450d and has been pretty good thus far.
IMO I think flash shouldnt be used.
Best thing is too get the shutter speed as fast as u can without the pics gettin too dark. Slowly bump up the ISO but trying to avoid going to high to avoid noise.
Im no expert, but im sure everyone will agree its all about experimenting with what you got. Theres no "perfect settings" as such.
IMO I think flash shouldnt be used.
Best thing is too get the shutter speed as fast as u can without the pics gettin too dark. Slowly bump up the ISO but trying to avoid going to high to avoid noise.
Im no expert, but im sure everyone will agree its all about experimenting with what you got. Theres no "perfect settings" as such.
i have Kodak dx6490 that i payed $600 for it,you would think it would do job???!! No way! 450d that you have what brand is it....Nic_Corleone;3035531; said:
1) Before you attempt taking pictures clean the glass inside and out
2.)take the pictures at night with all light sources off except the tank
3.)get as much light as you can into the tank add lighting if you can
4.)use the fastest speed your camera has
5.)NO FLASHES it washes out the fishes color.If you can't control the flash put a piece of masking tape over it to diffuse the bright flash.
6.)Press the shutter button half-way down to focus, than all the way down to take the picture. thank you vanimate for this one.
7.)Do not use digital zoom, only optical zoom for really clear pictures
8.)shoot from a tripod
9.)A remote shutter release(if possible for your camera)is best because sometimes presing the shutter can shake the camera
10.)give the camera time to auto-focus... do not rush pictures
11.)let the fish come into your view of the camera,don't chase it down
12.) Plenty of light: The more the better, no matter those are tank lights or top-down flash light. Lighting is the key toward good aquarium photography (actually, apply to all photography cases).
13.) Faster shutter speed: 1/100s and faster is safer, and 1/200s is nearly OK for turning around bichirs.
14.) Smaller aperture size (the larger number): 11 or above (the smaller aperture the larger depth of field).
15.) Top-down external flash light on tank top is good (studio flash light is even better), built-in flash light is not good.
16.) Be patient, and spend more time (you'll get reward).
I mostly use 1/200s~1/250s, F16~22 for aquarium photography (I do setup plenty of lights for the tank)
2.)take the pictures at night with all light sources off except the tank
3.)get as much light as you can into the tank add lighting if you can
4.)use the fastest speed your camera has
5.)NO FLASHES it washes out the fishes color.If you can't control the flash put a piece of masking tape over it to diffuse the bright flash.
6.)Press the shutter button half-way down to focus, than all the way down to take the picture. thank you vanimate for this one.
7.)Do not use digital zoom, only optical zoom for really clear pictures
8.)shoot from a tripod
9.)A remote shutter release(if possible for your camera)is best because sometimes presing the shutter can shake the camera
10.)give the camera time to auto-focus... do not rush pictures
11.)let the fish come into your view of the camera,don't chase it down
12.) Plenty of light: The more the better, no matter those are tank lights or top-down flash light. Lighting is the key toward good aquarium photography (actually, apply to all photography cases).
13.) Faster shutter speed: 1/100s and faster is safer, and 1/200s is nearly OK for turning around bichirs.
14.) Smaller aperture size (the larger number): 11 or above (the smaller aperture the larger depth of field).
15.) Top-down external flash light on tank top is good (studio flash light is even better), built-in flash light is not good.
16.) Be patient, and spend more time (you'll get reward).
I mostly use 1/200s~1/250s, F16~22 for aquarium photography (I do setup plenty of lights for the tank)
beblondie;3038133; said:
thank you very much i will do that, do you have the same camera as i do or i all camera work the same.
I would recommend the sony. I have an alpha 300 and it's a great bit of kit. Theres some good advice here but I think some of it's unnecessary. Like the tripod and remote shutter? Unless your maybe shooting a planted tank no fish (therefore minimal motion) The idea is to get as fast a shutter speed as possible to capture the fish and a tripod just gets in the way imo. I like to be able to move around when shooting my fish (moving in, out, etc). I am not saying don't use a tripod or remote just that in my exp it's not necessary to shoot active fish.
Also consider getting a small photography tank so you can photograph individual fish easily. You can pick up little tanks cheap as.
hth, Nicko.
Also consider getting a small photography tank so you can photograph individual fish easily. You can pick up little tanks cheap as.
hth, Nicko.
What would you consider to be a small photography tank for 20+" fish?Nick0;3190128; said:Also consider getting a small photography tank so you can photograph individual fish easily. You can pick up little tanks cheap as.
hth, Nicko.
I have a kodak ZD8612 I got from walmart for 120!!!!!! very very happy with the camera and the pics it takes. I find that if the fish are moving, using the sports setting helps as it increases shutter speed. also, i recommend shutting of the lights in the room and just leaving the tank light on. this especially works well at night. turn off the flash too, the tank will provide enough lighting, especially if you shut off the other lights in the room. not using a flash prevents that glare off the glass as well. for close up pics when the fish are still or moving slowly, i use the flower close up setting. this allows for better quality pics at very close range. also, being physically closer to the subject you are shooting rather than zooming up to them allows for greater focus for close up shots. hope this helps.
