If you look you can find black elbows or paint it black. If you want to go open bulkhead I would do an over flow box to set the height
Tank drilling
- Thread starter nzafi
- Start date
If you look you can find black elbows or paint it black. If you want to go open bulkhead I would do an over flow box to set the height
https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/...ome-help-with-noise-reduction-options.680720/
Here's the thread on my 220. It will probably answer most of your questions.
I definitely recommend a sump.
Drilling is easy.
Don't spend the money on the H2Overflow items, just get the cheap stuff from BRS and PVC Direct (they have most fittings in black).
Go with three 1.5" overflows and two 3/4"-1" returns.
Don't get cheap pond pumps. I recommend a pair of the Jebao DCP 8000's, which can be turned down with a controller.
Ask away with questions.
Here's the thread on my 220. It will probably answer most of your questions.
I definitely recommend a sump.
Drilling is easy.
Don't spend the money on the H2Overflow items, just get the cheap stuff from BRS and PVC Direct (they have most fittings in black).
Go with three 1.5" overflows and two 3/4"-1" returns.
Don't get cheap pond pumps. I recommend a pair of the Jebao DCP 8000's, which can be turned down with a controller.
Ask away with questions.
https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/drilled-my-220-today-pictures.669764/#post-7522363
Also, here is the thread I made about drilling my 220. There are quite a few pictures.
Only thing I would change if I could do it over would be to stop midway through the glass and setup the jig on the other side of the glass so that you avoid the chipping when the hole saw punches through. You can clearly see what I mean in a few of my pictures. It doesn't cause any issues, but I'd rather not have it.
Also, here is the thread I made about drilling my 220. There are quite a few pictures.
Only thing I would change if I could do it over would be to stop midway through the glass and setup the jig on the other side of the glass so that you avoid the chipping when the hole saw punches through. You can clearly see what I mean in a few of my pictures. It doesn't cause any issues, but I'd rather not have it.
How come you are recommending 3 1.5" intakes? Don't think 2 is enough?
Also, did you get yours to be silent? The biggest recommendation I found when you don't have an overflow box was that you should be using a T connected to the bulkhead with a cap drilled. If you do a 90 degree elbow the noise is suppose to be horrendous. Is that your experience?
I have my aquarium setup as a herbie style overflow, so it uses valves on the overflow lines to keep them under full siphon. It is completely silent.
What you are talking about, where you use a T with a hole drilled in it, is a durso style. It can be pretty quiet, but I don't think anything can compare with how quiet my herbie setup is.
I recommend three 1.5" overflows so that you can use two of them as your main overflows, which is what I have done, and then use the third as an emergency overflow, in case one of the others gets clogged. In my opinion, you can never have too many overflows and it's better to go ahead and do them all at once instead of doing what might be enough only to find out after you have it all setup that you need to break it all down and drill another overflow.
You really should read through my "noise reduction" thread. It actually details my whole system and the changes I made to make it silent, and the end result.
Fish Tank Travis
i skimmed it and need to read through it again. Just been insane at work recently. I was under the impression that a true beananimal requires an overflow box and can't be done without it. I'll go through your link in detail though. With upcoming baby and move it looks like I might just drill for autodrip and give up on sump. With a plywood build in the works it probably makes more sense to focus on that then dumping money into new filtration.
