Tank Leveling Advice.......Please!

[Doc_Polit]

My basement floor is a concrete slab.

Naturally, the location that I have chosen for my 180-gallon tank is out of level 3/4" from left to right over the 6' span.

In trying to determine the best method to get my stand (1.5 square steel tubing) level, I have narrowed my choices to 2.

Option 1 - Rip down dimensional lumber (2"x4") to support/offset the entire length of the "gap". Shim would be cut very slightly higher to account for compression once the tank is full.

Option 2 - Install these (http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...=3,40993,41283). I am thinking that rather than use screws I would have them "tack" welded in place. I would place 1 at each corner and 1 (front and back) at the center support.

Please give me your thoughts. Which would you choose? Why?

Thanks!

 

[greenterra]

I would go the shimming route and steer clear of the adjustable feet you linked. I have seen them strip the threads quite easily.

 

[azazal]

they both kinda suck lol... sorry..why not pour a concrete pad level and set tank on that?...5 or 6 bags 5000psi self leveling concrete , mesh and 2x4 frame ...id say off the top of my head $50 mat'l and a days work...depends on how thick you want pad...

im sure someone on here knows min thickness for a pad this size? ill guess and say 2 " at shallow end (2.75'' low end)

 

[BadOleRoss]

they both kinda suck lol... sorry..why not pour a concrete pad level and set tank on that?...5 or 6 bags 5000psi self leveling concrete , mesh and 2x4 frame ...id say off the top of my head $50 mat'l and a days work...depends on how thick you want pad...

im sure someone on here knows min thickness for a pad this size? ill guess and say 2 " at shallow end (2.75'' low end)

I like this idea. THe only thing I might also look at doing was to pour the self leveling concrete into the form but on a sheet of heavy platic sheeting so it doesnt bond to the floor. That way, when you move or tear the tank down you dont have a weird place on the floor.

 

[azazal]

I like this idea. THe only thing I might also look at doing was to pour the self leveling concrete into the form but on a sheet of heavy platic sheeting so it doesnt bond to the floor. That way, when you move or tear the tank down you dont have a weird place on the floor.

i actually thought about writing that too except i was gonna say roofing felt...(cheap)

 

[Doc_Polit]

Thanks for the input.

I think your idea is the winner azazal.

I am going to build a form and line the bottom with something pliable that will keep the pad off of the floor.

I will fill the mold with Sakrete fast-set mortar mix.

Then on to the 180 build.

 

[sashimimaster]

How about the self leveling mortar? They carry it at Home Depot or Lowes for like $28/bag. You just mix it and pour it. It's thin like water and finds it's own level.

 

[Egon]

Just shim it. That tubular stock stand you have is way over kill strength wise. Might as well use those advantages, you have em

 

[azazal]

Just shim it. That tubular stock stand you have is way over kill strength wise. Might as well use those advantages, you have em

only as strong as the weakest weld....and if that happens to be the weld that the shim drives the load through..well....murphy's laws a *****...

i have no faith in using wood shims between concrete and metal on a basement floor...wet wood + weight + time = disaster IMHO

BTW if you do it and put a barrier down to possibly remove later i personally would not use re-bar or mesh...that would suck tearing out

 

[nes999]

what about metal shims they are cheap!