Tank resealing

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dr_sudz

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Mar 6, 2006
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:irked: Wow these seem to be comeing up quite a bit in the past few day... Here is my deliema, I resealed a 110 already once,:cry: and when I filled it with water it only lasted an hour and half at the longest, and gushed all over the floor. :nilly: Now when I have restriped the tank I have noticed where the water is going out the silicone seems to have come away from the glass between the front wall and bottom. Should I pull the bottom right off and reseal it from there then do the inside of the tank or can i get around this another way with a little less work?

Thanks in advance!
 
Should I pull the bottom right off and reseal it from there then do the inside of the tank or can i get around this another way with a little less work?
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If you've already resealed the tank once and it failed, rather than ask us you might try asking your wife. I'm pretty certain if that tank is going back into your house with the intent that it be filled with water you'd better do it right.

If you sent it to a tank manufacturer they tear it down. They can't guarantee any seams they haven't done.

I'd completely take it apart and strip each edge of silicone. I'd then clean the glass with 100% acetone. Finally I'd start rebuilding the tank, making sure to apply silicone between the panes, clamping the pieces in place. when the tank is assembled and clamped, go back in and seal the inside edges of all connections. Smooth the bead with your thumb or a spatula shaped to give the thickness you wish.

A tank that size shouldn't be moved for at least three days after assembly, so do the job where it can be left alone, protected and out-of-the-way. I'd probably fill and test the tank there before moving it back into the house. Take the time to make sure the place you're doing the repair is level, try foam or carpet pieces.

The typical problem when sealing a tank is cleaning the surface where the silicone is to be applied. Unless it's clean the silicone will just peel off from the unclean surface. Acetone dries clean with NO residue, unlike paint thinner or gasoline. It's available at paint supply places or beauty supplies. (It's also used to remove fingernail polish.)

Make sure the top of the stand you're using is level before filling the tank in place. any irregularities could be eliminated by using cork colored to match either your stand or tank trim.
 
ALRIGHT, I have sealed the tank for a second time. But I have a new question. How many while sealing the tank have used GE silicone II and have been sucessful in having a good aquarium seal? I was reading the bottle after using the second tube, only to read that it says not recomended for aquariums. I had read that when I bought it but the other one didn't say ANYTHING about aquariums so I didn't read it properly and picked up GE Silicone II not the I. Anyone have problems with this?? I am soooo mad at myself right now for not properly reading instructions!
 
I don't think there's alot of difference in silicone offerings. Most manufacturers don't add aquariums to the list of uses to avoid liability problems. I'd just avoid any that included anti-bacterial additives. Years back there was a period that Dow's silicone wasn't trusted because of failures. I haven't heard of any brand to avoid since. Your LFS could probably get either AGA's brand of choice or whatever aquarium manufacturer's brand they choose to promote at the store for you.
 
I was looking at the stand that the tank is suppose to sit on, and the center on both front and back have 1/4 inch gap from the bar to the tank, could this make the tank fail when filled?

its a metal stand by the way. And would a piece of styro fix this?
 
Is the stand bent by any chance. Check the messurements from corner to corner at the feet, should be the same. A 1/4" on a 110g tank is alot to ask styrofoam to take-up. Styro is for <.125" on a long span like a 110g. I would get the stand tweeked so it's level, either by rewelding or just strategically heating and shrinking/expanding the metal a little.

This could have caused the initial leak by flexing the glass enough to break the seal.

Dr Joe

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:iagree: And GE Silicone II is dirty-bad-nastey-icky-poo for fish tanks. The anti-fungal chemicals will leach into the tank and reportedly are deadly to fish. :barf:
 
Plus you are one of the only people that i've heard of resealing their tank and filling it "In there House" After resealing the general practice is to fill it outside and let it sit out there for at LEAST 24 hours :) Especially on Large Tanks ...

Sorry never used GE 2 only 1:)
 
Dr Joe;540640; said:
Is the stand bent by any chance. Check the messurements from corner to corner at the feet, should be the same. A 1/4" on a 110g tank is alot to ask styrofoam to take-up. Styro is for <.125" on a long span like a 110g. I would get the stand tweeked so it's level, either by rewelding or just strategically heating and shrinking/expanding the metal a little.

This could have caused the initial leak by flexing the glass enough to break the seal.

Dr Joe

.
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:iagree: especially on taller tanks if this is what you have...
 
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