Tank staying heated with heater off

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
From: http://www.beananimal.com/articles/thermodynamics-for-the-aquarist.aspx

Q: How much heat does my submersible pump add to the aquarium?

A:For our purposes, almost 100% of the energy consumed by a submersible pump (mag-drive, powerhead, etc.) is converted to heat in the tank! The simple fact is that if you were to take a heater that consumed exactly 100W and a powerhead that consumed exactly 100W and placed them each in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid, both buckets would reach the same temperature in the same amount of time! Why? Much of the energy consumed by the pump is directly shed as heat into the water. What is left does work and that work (moving water) causes friction (water moving against the objects and walls of the tank), most of which is converted to heat in the tank. When attempting to calculate the heat load on your tank, you should add up the total wattage of all submersible pumps in the system!

Q: How much heat does my external pump add to the aquarium?

A: This is not as cut and dry as a submersible pump. Different styles of external pumps contribute different amounts of heat into the system. Some external pumps are cooled by the water flowing through them (most mag-drive pumps). Most Jet style centrifugal pumps are fairly well isolated from the system and may only shed 5%-25% of their heat into the aquarium (remember they move water and create friction, no matter what). Is there a rule of thumb? Not that I know of! I would assume maybe 80% heat transfer for external mag-drive style pumps and 15%-25% heat transfer for other external pumps, especially if they are located in a closed stand!
 
I agree that different submersible pumps produce different amounts of heat, whether in tank or in sump, and pumps provide different heat depending on how far they are throttled back. The more throttled back (the more closed the valve pumping water to the tank), the more heat produced. The more wide open a pump is allowed to run, the more efficiently it runs.
I have some Mag drive pumps in sumps, in my system, and some Laguna, I find the Mag Drives raise the heat more than the Laguna.
 
Wow never thought of it like that ! But I will say that my tank stays between 79.7 and 83.2 most of the time the only time I see 79.7 is when I am doing a 30 percent water change . I have 2 300 watt heaters I n sump but I keep them unplugged at this time

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I'm new to all this, so please bear with me. Don't the heaters cycle on and off when needed? Do you really save on that much power if the heaters are unplugged seeing as how your water is staying warm anyway?
 
I agree that different submersible pumps produce different amounts of heat, whether in tank or in sump, and pumps provide different heat depending on how far they are throttled back. The more throttled back (the more closed the valve pumping water to the tank), the more heat produced. The more wide open a pump is allowed to run, the more efficiently it runs.
I have some Mag drive pumps in sumps, in my system, and some Laguna, I find the Mag Drives raise the heat more than the Laguna.

Makes sense. Mags are power hogs. The mag drive 24 draws 265 watts. I know a guy that was running two Mag Drive 2400s and his tank would get to 88F+ just because of the pumps. It was the equivalent of having a 530 watt heater going 24/7.

I'm new to all this, so please bear with me. Don't the heaters cycle on and off when needed? Do you really save on that much power if the heaters are unplugged seeing as how your water is staying warm anyway?

You are right, but Aquarium heaters are mass produced cheap pieces of junk. They sometimes fail in the "on" position. I have heard people argue that if they know for a fact that they do not need to add heat to their system (during warmer times of the year), they just unplug their heaters in order to eliminate the risk of the thermostat failing, sticking in the "on" position and boiling their fish.

I know that in the summer time I never need to add heat to my tank...in fact there are times I need to run a fan on the tank to keep it below 85F. So I too now unplug my heaters entirely for several months out of the year. Also, my heaters draw a tiny amount of energy even when the heating element is not on, so I save about $0.50 a month by unplugging...hey, 50 cents is 50 cents- lol).

But if there's any possibility that your tank will need heat, it's best to just leave 'em plugged in.
 
No Problemo.

A lot of hobbyist that have a lot invested in their stock plug their heaters into temperature controllers since the thermostat on aquarium heaters are so prone to failure.

The most popular seem to be the Ranco ETC; I use them on my tank and they are really nice units. They are used for lots of commercial applications (not a cheap-o product made for the aquarium hobby), so they are pretty reliable.

http://www.etcsupply.com/etc-controllers-c-36.html?osCsid=2c6bb9aa72acd3ddbe61e31a52c02224
 
I like all the comments thanks i am used to a 180gal with half inch acrylic now I have 1.2 inch acrylic 518 gal and I guess they hold heat good I feel I will only need a heater from Nov to Feb I don't have central air and live in orange county it stays warm in my house

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Did you know the temp before you place the heater? Maybe the temp was already 80 degrees before you place it. Or there was a climate change so the weather went hotter lol. In my place here in Indonesia, the normal temp. these days is about 32°C at sun and 30°C at night. I set the heater for my juveniles cichlas tank on 29°C. Since the ways of working of heater is to heat the water inside, so it only works when the temp go below 29°C,and it is happening only when it rains all day. thanks, hope to see the pic of your tank :D
 
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