My large tank at home runs around 90 in the summer and i have all fish you ave in there with no problems. Heat is not going to kill your fish only going to cause there matabolism to raise and eat and grow more. Seems to me like something else killed your bass.
tempeture too high.
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the fan works around acrylic and florescent light does produce some heat touch the bulbs are they warm? a fan blowing from one end of my 200 gal acrylic will drop the tem 4 deg so it must must do somthing maybe you need a bigger fan... and yes i live in Canada and it's 100deg's here too.
Staying cool
One problem many aquarists have had to deal with in the last few years is making sure their tank doesn't overheat. With summer temperatures in the UK regularly getting into the upper 20s and low 30s, fishes that do not like very warm water can become stressed. This is a very serious problem for saltwater aquarists, because tropical marine fish are adapted to very constant water temperatures around the 25°C mark. But even so, there are many freshwater fish that will get stressed by high summer temperatures.
Standard tropicals, 24-26°C
Most of the common fish in the trade will do very well at the middling temperature all year round. This is especially true with farmed fish like neons, angels, tiger barbs, swordtails, etc that have all be reared under very uniform conditions. The main problem with these fish will be heat stress in summer. Whilst they generally adapt well to temporarily high temperatures during the summer, if this produces a lack of oxygen in the water as well, these fish can suffer. Avoiding overstocking is one important aspect to mitigating this problem, but increasing circulation and aeration will also help, as will some of the temporary cooling methods outlined above.
High temperature tropicals, 25-30°C
Some aquarium fish need significantly higher temperatures to do well. Discus and the various South American dwarf cichlids are the best known examples. These cichlids inhabit very warm environments. Apistogramma and Mikrogeophagus dwarf cichlids live along the edges of shallow pools and lakes where sunshine causes the water temperature to rise sharply during the day. Most species enjoy temperatures around the 26-28°C mark, though Mikrogeophagus ramirezi has been reported from waters where the temperature was as high as 35°C! Discus, at least wild-caught discus, are even more enthusiastic about warm water, and should be maintained at around 28-30°C and up to 32°C for breeding.
While most do not need the same high temperatures as discus and Apistogramma, many of the Asian labyrinth fish including gouramis and bettas will thrive in such conditions nonetheless. Their ability to breathe air gives them an advantage over fish otherwise dependent solely on the oxygen dissolved in the water. To some degree the same holds true for air-breathing catfish such as Corydoras and Hypostomus, though subtropical species would be severely stressed if kept too warm on a permanent basis. The subtropical bronze and peppered corydoras catfish, for example, would be poor choices for the discus aquarium, whereas truly tropical species like Corydoras panda and Corydoras sterbai are a better choice.
The clown loach is among the relatively few loaches that prefers above average temperatures. Its optimal range is between 25-30°C, and it can therefore work very well in the discus aquarium. Most other loaches are fish of mountain stream habitats and cannot tolerate such balmy conditions.
The above article was taken from www.tropicalfishfinder.co.uk dated July 19, 2007.
If you want to read the full article please follow the link: Tropicalfishfinder.co.uk
For your reference:
90 Degrees Fahrenheit is equivalent to 32.2222 Degrees Celsius
85 Degrees Fahrenheit is equivalent to 29.4444 Degrees Celsius
80 Degrees Fahrenheit is equivalent to 26.6667 Degrees Celsius
One problem many aquarists have had to deal with in the last few years is making sure their tank doesn't overheat. With summer temperatures in the UK regularly getting into the upper 20s and low 30s, fishes that do not like very warm water can become stressed. This is a very serious problem for saltwater aquarists, because tropical marine fish are adapted to very constant water temperatures around the 25°C mark. But even so, there are many freshwater fish that will get stressed by high summer temperatures.
Standard tropicals, 24-26°C
Most of the common fish in the trade will do very well at the middling temperature all year round. This is especially true with farmed fish like neons, angels, tiger barbs, swordtails, etc that have all be reared under very uniform conditions. The main problem with these fish will be heat stress in summer. Whilst they generally adapt well to temporarily high temperatures during the summer, if this produces a lack of oxygen in the water as well, these fish can suffer. Avoiding overstocking is one important aspect to mitigating this problem, but increasing circulation and aeration will also help, as will some of the temporary cooling methods outlined above.
High temperature tropicals, 25-30°C
Some aquarium fish need significantly higher temperatures to do well. Discus and the various South American dwarf cichlids are the best known examples. These cichlids inhabit very warm environments. Apistogramma and Mikrogeophagus dwarf cichlids live along the edges of shallow pools and lakes where sunshine causes the water temperature to rise sharply during the day. Most species enjoy temperatures around the 26-28°C mark, though Mikrogeophagus ramirezi has been reported from waters where the temperature was as high as 35°C! Discus, at least wild-caught discus, are even more enthusiastic about warm water, and should be maintained at around 28-30°C and up to 32°C for breeding.
While most do not need the same high temperatures as discus and Apistogramma, many of the Asian labyrinth fish including gouramis and bettas will thrive in such conditions nonetheless. Their ability to breathe air gives them an advantage over fish otherwise dependent solely on the oxygen dissolved in the water. To some degree the same holds true for air-breathing catfish such as Corydoras and Hypostomus, though subtropical species would be severely stressed if kept too warm on a permanent basis. The subtropical bronze and peppered corydoras catfish, for example, would be poor choices for the discus aquarium, whereas truly tropical species like Corydoras panda and Corydoras sterbai are a better choice.
The clown loach is among the relatively few loaches that prefers above average temperatures. Its optimal range is between 25-30°C, and it can therefore work very well in the discus aquarium. Most other loaches are fish of mountain stream habitats and cannot tolerate such balmy conditions.
The above article was taken from www.tropicalfishfinder.co.uk dated July 19, 2007.
If you want to read the full article please follow the link: Tropicalfishfinder.co.uk
For your reference:
90 Degrees Fahrenheit is equivalent to 32.2222 Degrees Celsius
85 Degrees Fahrenheit is equivalent to 29.4444 Degrees Celsius
80 Degrees Fahrenheit is equivalent to 26.6667 Degrees Celsius
My big 215 tank temperature rose to 86 and worried/worries me too, what I have been doing is I opened all cabinet doors where the sump is and also the cap too the top of the tank as well (actually the cap is closed but my boys hooked me up and cut and drilled the front side out so it can open for easy feeding without having to open the whole heavy wood cap, I also have the ceiling fan running constantly.
I like the egg crate idea but I don't want the salt creep so I rather leave in the glass tops.
My mom, who takes care of feeding my fish and watching my tank while I am away (my dad does the filters and water changes) puts the ro water used daily for evap in the refrigerator to chill it prior to dumping it into the tank, I think that is doing alot of good too.
I have just added a small ice pack (the ones that you put in the freezer to chill before putting it into the cooler) to the sump so I will see if this helps too.
I have thought of a chiller but I really don't want to add more wattage then I already have.
I like the egg crate idea but I don't want the salt creep so I rather leave in the glass tops.
My mom, who takes care of feeding my fish and watching my tank while I am away (my dad does the filters and water changes) puts the ro water used daily for evap in the refrigerator to chill it prior to dumping it into the tank, I think that is doing alot of good too.
I have just added a small ice pack (the ones that you put in the freezer to chill before putting it into the cooler) to the sump so I will see if this helps too.
I have thought of a chiller but I really don't want to add more wattage then I already have.
91 is high. Last summer I used a high velocity fan and left the cabinets open to at least displace the excess heat generated by the pump. My water still prob didnt top 85.
