The ]v[onster fish supersticky!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
arapaima are native to the amazon basin. their only predators at any size over 8 feet are jaguars and man. They have been introduced to asia for food. Their prey is virtually any fish, mammal, or thing unfortunate enough to fall into the water, but they prefer small schooling species. They are harmless to man.
 
This will help
Zoodiver;483039; said:
Let's look at planning this first.

You've decided to buy an arapaima. First and foremost: Do your homework. Obviously, it's one of the biggest things you can buy. They grow quickly. Do not make the mistake of saying "I'll upgrade my tank as it grows." That is one of the most common errors with keeping these thigns. If you purchase a small juv fish, you won't have time to construct a proper size enclosure to house it by the time it reaches at size. Have you system up and running fully cycled PRIOR to even looking for the fish. Your best bet is to have other fish in there. Arapaima will thrive in a well established tank. They don't do well at all in a young sytem. Find out an estimated food/water/electric bill. It will add up fast. Make sure you can afford it after you purchase one. You need to make sure they are LEGAL to keep in your area. Regulations vary greatly. Just because you can get one from a legal supplier doesn't mean the fish was brought in legally or that keeping it where you live is legal. Arapaima fall under CITIES II. Several States also have specific regulations regarding them. As for other countries, I'm sure there are ways to find out, and would be more than happy to assist you with that when the time comes.

Let's talk housing: Think very, very big. I suggest no less than 30,000 gallons for an adult and 50,000 gallons for two or three. Swimming area is the key when designing a pool. Depth doesn't have to be much more than about 6 feet. I wouldn't got any narrower than about 10 feet across at any point in the pool. Corners are bad, so all edges should be rounded. Even round the side walls to the bottom. Doing that will also aide in keeping water moving as well. Substrtate should be a natural color, and fairly dark. Brown tones work best. I like to use a mix of small gravel as well as larger fist-sized stones (I'll get into why in a post about breeding.) Tank decor can be basic, but there needs to be something. I've found arapaima to be territorial during certain seasons, so having objects (like logs and boulders) aide in creating a comfortable area for the fish to live. Lighting should be from above. It's been my experience that arapaima do not like underwater lights at all. The pool should have both light and dark areas during the day. Edges fo the pool should be high. These guys are amazing jumpers, and you should consider that one might jump out of the water.

Questions? Should I go into more depth on these subjects, or move on to filters?
Zoodiver;491381; said:
Filters:

The first thing to remember is that these are river fish. Enclosures should have a lot of moving water, but you'll also want areas of less flow. With systems the size your talking about for an arapaima, you're going to be looking at at least one good size sand filter, possibly a large carbon (if you are so inclined), a large bio tower (or sand bed if you can accomidate one) and possibly ozone. You'll also need pumps up to 5 or 7 hp, lots of PVC (sch 80 -NOT sch 40), ball valves and check valves, flow rate meters, pressure gauges and a host of other plumbing basics.

**As for ozone, I'd suggest not going there unless you have the training. Large scale ozone units are a quick way to kill yourself. **

Most of the things you'll need are availible as pool filters. From there, it's matching cubic feet to the amount of water you have. Good flow (depending on tank volume) should equate to 100% turn over rate two or three times an hour. You'll want both a surfce skimming suction line off of an overflow box as well as a bottom drawing suction line. Both can feed into a pump which will push water into the filter and back to the pool. If you are using several types of media in various filters, several pumps my be needed. Also, I'd recommend having a single smaller pump running just circulation (straight from and to the pool). this is great for adjusting flow and use in case you need to take a filter off line for servicing.

Most sand filters are round for this size application. Thse work well for saving space and maximizing filter surface area. If you look into an elongated tube style, keep in mind you'll need more water to fluidize the bed completely during a backwash. Elongated beds allow more surface area for water contact. These style are usually used on extremely large systems.

Depending on where you're located, you'll want a heat exchanger as well as a chiller. Some areas, you'll need both to maintain proper temps.
 
FishRfine;1075017; said:
ok, heres my goal. I want to try to create a guide for every monster fish that has ever been kept. we can like paste all the stickys that have already been done, and then add pics to them

Great idea :thumbsup:
Instead of waiting for input, why don't you use our search option to find information. Pick what's most interesting and then compile it into one document.

HarleyK
 
African Arowana
This arowana is very hard to keep alive and well untill its past the 1' mark. It is a filter feeder, and many people like them because there a good find and they look like mini Arapaima Gigas.
 
wouldnt it be easier to keep everything separate? rather then having to go through 5000 pages of info on monster fish?
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com