my vote is for the red tail. I think they look better and the act better too. Who doesn't like something that they can hold?
Miguel;3491741; said:Next, the size ( AVOID THE BIG ONES PLEASE, NAMELY RETICULATUS, BURMESE, SEBAE, NATALENSIS, ANACONDAS AND THE LIKE ). All of these can, and will, eventually, be dangerous.
Sorry but I would add to your above list python curtis and remove from the list adacondas in most cases you gotta really jump up and down on an green adaconda before they try to nail you even wild ones. (though yellows are nastier, but smaller).
Why you wouldn't recommend Ball pythons is anyone guess, I've never encounter a nasty Ball python, never. (And they've made a few people millionaires, that can't be all bad).
Miguel;3492818; said:The measures you are planning on are much too large for arboreal snakes.
As I said, Bloods are "ground" snakes. For ground snakes there is a rule of thumb for the terrarium size, which is that the snakes could be as large as half the perimtre of the terrarium. So you could try a 3 to 4 foot snake. Ground snake.
I suggest a male Blood.
Sorry but I wouldn't recommend Bloods as a ground snake, especially with that rule of thumb. The Blood in my avata @ time of this photo was 6ft long and 21 inches around @ her middle. Her mate Sir Evil, the nastiest snake on this big blue marble we call home, was 5ft of Pure EVIL.

Tequila;3510906; said:Hello, RedDevilDon2005 Speaking as a person that has owned, collected and bred all of the snakes you have been speaking of or inquiring about. I think with the demension your talking about, and your level of experience I would suggest they you start off with a Carpet python, though I generally tell people starting off with boids that either Balls or Boas are best. I think that since your cage is higher than it is wide and that you want a snake that will make use of branches, that the Carpet is best. Note Carpets can be nippy!
Blood pythons aren't the snake for anyone that's just breaking into snakes, most are extremely high strung mid-size pythons that can be quite strong for there size. I would liken Blood pythons to Gaboon Vipers while they aren't venomous they strike the same. Meaning they can launch themselve at you, a 5ft Blood python can tag you from 4ft away. And they have a vicious set of curved teeth, in some cases a double row in there upper jaw.
Chondro python and Bloods also require a very high level of humdity, while Bloods would do best either in soaking wet peat moss which tends to rot at high temps or water covering 20%~25% of there bodies.
Chondro Pythons just require high humdity and would do best with a misting system in place. If there not kept at a high humdity level they often have serious problems with shedding which leads to other problems. I have successfully kept & bred Chondro pythons in enclosure with 6 inches of water filling the bottom of the enclosure and a submersible heater causing a rise in humdity plus misting them twice a day. Also Chondro pythons aren't big on being handled, and have a lightening fast bite.
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RedDevilDon2005;3513426; said:Thank you. That was really insightful, and me being completly new to this i really dont want something that I can't handle. The viv I'm building will have a 27"x9" deep landscape pond in it, 9 gal. I'm still debating the setup, but it will have a nice branch section and the pond.
But i have a question, in the book that i bought it says that there are six sub-species of carpet and australian, but when I look up Carpet Python in the book I get Morelia spilota. Is this what everyone is talking about when they say carpets?
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