def. planning on putting a couple layers of a clear waterproof sealer over everything once I'm done...that should in a way preserve the grout correct?
Tile:Is it waterproof...for a pond-please look!
- Thread starter arowfan
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Just use silicone in place of grout.
And to answer your first question, yes tiles are water proof
I made a tank out of wood and glass for sides. The bottom was tile and silicone and I had no issues.
And to answer your first question, yes tiles are water proof
I made a tank out of wood and glass for sides. The bottom was tile and silicone and I had no issues.
arowfan: I must agree with Dane and New2natives. Use silicone to grout your tile. There is too great of a risk using regular mortar and waterproofing sealer. Even though you may use several coats of waterproofing sealer on your tile, the risk of lye (one of the components found in tile mortar) leaching into your tank is deadly to all of your tank creatures. In my opinion, the risk is too great. I would go with silicone to grout tile in my tank, if I was planning to use that particular medium.
Your idea sounds great though of using tile. Speaking for myself, I'd really like to see the outcome of your tank. I believe others would too. Good luck with your build.
Your idea sounds great though of using tile. Speaking for myself, I'd really like to see the outcome of your tank. I believe others would too. Good luck with your build.
Your idea for tile is not a bad one. The problem with tile is the substrate or in this case the tank structure must be stable and able to withstand ANY flex. The potential problems are : Tiles cracking , Tiles popping loose and falling off , Grout cracking and/or falling out. The idea of using silicone might help but if it fails you will have a tough timearowfan;3952847;3952847 said:
removing the silicone completely to re grout .
David K. Bradley makes a good point about Lye , this is something that would need a little more research.
The method and design of the tank structure is critical to success or failure. I would need a lot clearer idea of your actual plan to tell you with any certainty that it would suffice."2x4x8's overlaped on top of one another" doesn't make a lot of sense to me ( this could just be a grammatical issue) . Short of laying 2 x 4's flat and stacking them up solid with glue between the layers I don't see it working long term. This still leaves you with figuring out an effective means of joining the corners. It doesn't address any issues associated with a viewing window unless you are building a pond. The bottom line is that if you tile and grout (or silicone) the inside of the tank and the tank structure flexs it is only a matter of time before a failure will occur. Water is relentless it will find a way out.
Installing tile in a "wet" area such as a shower or tank is not as easy as it might seem at first. I suspect that by the time you built a tank capable of being lined safely with tile you will have spent way more than a conventional plywood tank would cost.
Just out of curiosity how much was it going to cost for whatever pond coat/sealer you are trying to avoid buying ?
dawn, I was originally thinking of using a pond liner which would cost almost $200 before tax-so thats why I was thinking about tiling; there where really cheap tiles on sale at home depot that I think would make the overall look of the pond 10 times better...
as for the overlaping of the 2x4's, hopefully the attached pic helps...its a pic of mfswets indoor pond build...I'm using the same concept...its supposed to be very strong and durable
and like I said, I would be doing that with the 2x4's all around, then concrete board all around, and finally tile...
so what do you think? and thanks for the idea of using silicone for grout everyone, def. going to go that route, followed by some sort of waterproof sealer-can anyone reccomend one that's fish safe???
and thanks david...will def make a thread of the build, I already started out with the base yesterday, and went a couple of layers up with the 2x4s...and I have pics so far ...and receipts, so if this thing turns out good (fingers crossed lol) anyone interested in making one can get an idea of what to do
thanks all!
ps so does anyone think I should make a center brace at the top center of the pond?
as for the overlaping of the 2x4's, hopefully the attached pic helps...its a pic of mfswets indoor pond build...I'm using the same concept...its supposed to be very strong and durable
and like I said, I would be doing that with the 2x4's all around, then concrete board all around, and finally tile...
so what do you think? and thanks for the idea of using silicone for grout everyone, def. going to go that route, followed by some sort of waterproof sealer-can anyone reccomend one that's fish safe???
and thanks david...will def make a thread of the build, I already started out with the base yesterday, and went a couple of layers up with the 2x4s...and I have pics so far ...and receipts, so if this thing turns out good (fingers crossed lol) anyone interested in making one can get an idea of what to do
thanks all!
ps so does anyone think I should make a center brace at the top center of the pond?
and btw dawn, the idea of making a viewing window has crossed my mind, but I've decided to be safe and NOT do one lol
so tile all around-
so tile all around-
If the water is only 24" deep think the tank structure will work fine.
I would thorougly and evenly apply Titebond Plus between every 2x4 especialy the corners. I would sandwich a layer of 30 Lb roofing felt between the 2x4"s and the Hardibacker for an extra moisture barrier using Blackjack roofing cement at all overlaps. Attach the Hardibacker with galvanized roofing nails leving a 1/4" gap between all sheets. Reinforce all joints in the backer with 2" mesh sheetrock tape and mastic (not thin set mortar) Set all tiles using mastic and all you are left with is deciding how to grout/ silicone. I would research the grout story some more before deciding which way to go . If you can find an NSF approved grout this would be best. Perhaps a call to the manufacturer or a trip to a local tile store (not Home depot etc.)
You might want to dry run the actual total cost before you start.
Either way this looks like an interesting project and I am going to follow your progress with interest.
I would thorougly and evenly apply Titebond Plus between every 2x4 especialy the corners. I would sandwich a layer of 30 Lb roofing felt between the 2x4"s and the Hardibacker for an extra moisture barrier using Blackjack roofing cement at all overlaps. Attach the Hardibacker with galvanized roofing nails leving a 1/4" gap between all sheets. Reinforce all joints in the backer with 2" mesh sheetrock tape and mastic (not thin set mortar) Set all tiles using mastic and all you are left with is deciding how to grout/ silicone. I would research the grout story some more before deciding which way to go . If you can find an NSF approved grout this would be best. Perhaps a call to the manufacturer or a trip to a local tile store (not Home depot etc.)
You might want to dry run the actual total cost before you start.
Either way this looks like an interesting project and I am going to follow your progress with interest.
