Troubleshooting fish losses over 2015-2022, summary

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I think I agree with thebiggerthebetter that smaller fish (and tanks too) being a lot easier to care for and meet the needs of. Taking my 110 liter as a comparison to the 17034 liters, it's 155 times smaller and the loaches+tetras in it are around 30-45 times smaller lengthwise than the catfish, arowanas, gars, etc in the 17034 liters, no more than 5-6 cm. Plus, although it is densely stocked to allow the schooling fish as much company as the tank size allows, it is less stocked than the 17034 liters.

All I have to do is drain and replace a couple buckets on the 3 days a week of tank cleaning, throw a few pinches of food in a few times a day, and vacuum small amounts of dirt every now and again. I also am very easily able to meet the enrichment/decor needs of these fish, with their size posing no issues for sand substrate, a mixture of caves/rocks/wood/etc, and even enough live plants to not need a filter.
No having to go scuba diving to catch fish, worrying about territorial disputes/fish injury/equipment damage from decor, or (my personal favorite) wading waste-deep in a pool-sized sump full of fish turds to do maintenance. :ROFL::ROFL::ROFL:

Heck, not even my actually big fish (to be 20-30 cm) in my biggest 473 liter tanks are so big as to be uncareable for. They're still a lot smaller than the fish in the 17034 liters, and their care is just slightly-more-than-quadrupled care of the 110 liter minus the live plants,

If only bigger fish could have their needs met easier, everyone would benefit from that.
 
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T tigerhouse Hi Mark, your input is much appreciated.

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M: I have always been told that it was better to feed saltwater fish, shrimp and so on to freshwater fish because most saltwater pathogens and parasites cannot survive in freshwater or freshwater fish.
V: Same here. Yes, this is about pathogen transference from feed to pet. Wednesday's concern differs though, it's about nutrition health, and I don't have an answer to that that'd be grounded in science or knowledge. Anyone? RD. RD. ? All I can say it seems to me that fish osmoregulation is superb and the exchange of chemicals easily soluble in water, such as salt, with the environment occurs quickly and efficiently, so shedding extra salt shouldn't be a problem even long term, but again, my feelings can be naive and off mark.

M: It takes very little salt in a freshwater aquarium to act as a tonic against numerous freshwater pathogens.
V: It seems there is no concensus on this. I've read about both good (short term) and bad (long term) effects of salting water.

M: Usually feeding unstressed goldfish that are healthy and fed are fine as a feeder for your monsters.
V: Maybe. I just happened to be against this practice because of personal ethical beliefs. Lack of personal breeding pool of feeders doesn't help either.

M: As far as decor goes I have found that PVC (sinking kind) works wonders. Easy to remove, clean and non toxic.
V: PVC pipes or other decor could work indeed in general but in our case, I listed a pretty clear and strong list of cons in my second post on page 1.

M: I would agree there could be a contaminate coming in with you water. Things in the water like high levels of calcium or magnesium will slowly kill certain types of fish over time or make other fish just feel bad and other species will not be effected at all. A full chemical analysis by a lab may need to be done.
V: It has been done by a National Analytical Lab. I know exactly what it is and is not in our well water and in our 85% RO + 15% well water mix that we drink and the fish live in. It's potable, clean water.

M: As far as pathogens go you would probably be better off talking to Dr. Kyle Farmer http://aquatactics.com
V: Thank you for this tip. Much appreciated.

M: On a side note keeping wild caught fish actually increases the wild population. When you buy wild caught fish your purchase makes money for the local populations which incentives them to make sure there is a steady supply of that fish in their local waters to collect and sell.
V: I can see how this may or may not be. People in poor countries tend not to be concerned with conservation - either they don't know better or their priority is whether their family will be fed or hungry today. For instance they continue to fish for, kill and eat critically endangered or even almost extinct fish, e.g. Mekong Giant Catfish. I appreciate your thoughts, but I side with jjohnwm jjohnwm on this one.

M: Even though you think it is overfeeding I totally disagree. You have something going on that not only killed all your bass but a bunch of other fish.
V: Yes, sure, many things are at play. In the case of our pbass, the data collected by us look undeniable to us: precisely the more a pbass overfeeds, the less it lives. Of course, there are likely other factors at play but the correlation with overfeeding as a factor is solid. I just can't build other correlations for the lack of concrete data on pathogen levels and other elusive, latent factors. For instance, I only switched to 100% NLS pellets and started presoaking thawed fish in VitaChem 2 years ago or so. Most of our pbass in the statistical pool of 14 we started keeping long before the 2 years ago and their diet wasn't balanced, I believe. So yes, there is more going on than simply overfeeding, I agree.

M: I have been going through your videos looking at your live fish and most of the fish look pretty good except for your koi. The body shape on some of the kio concerns me. Their bellies are not robust and their bodies just seem to be little elongated with wrong curvature from the mouth to the tail. My first thought is something is messing with their digestive system causing them to look the way they do. Even if you agreed with me I am just not sure how you would proceed. You could quarantine a couple fish in different tanks and treat them but even if you cured them I am not sure they would regain a their proper shape. I would look for a more robust belly to see if a cure was working. I am still leaning towards an internal pathogen/parasite.
V: Great observation and I'd agree with you on them, except we do have about 1/2 or more of the koi look good to my eye. About 1/2 look off one way or another. Yes, some worry me as they don't gain mass and look thin and may have an internal parasite easily. Many misshapen ones are merely due to genetics, the product of artificial breeding and not culling runts, which is the norm for the koi farming in the USA.

M: On a side note I was talking to a local water guy about an R.O. system for my tanks. He suggested a water softer before the R.O. system to increase the longevity of the R.O. membranes.
V: This was considered. To make 10,000 GPD of RO water we'd spend around $500 a month on salt alone on the pre-RO water softener. That's two new XLE-4040 membranes. It is simply not worth it - can as well buy new membranes and get more out of it $$$ that way.

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Thank you for thinking with me, Mark. Much valued.
 
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Can't thank you enough for your continued support F fishdance !

FD: Do you analyse your well water? Does the water table level or water composition change?
V: I analyze it with whatever little tests I have here regularly and we also sent samples to a National Lab some years ago. Probably would be a good idea to send again. But back then the well water was found to NOT contain anything dangerous whatsoever, no organic pollutants, no heavy metal pollutants, etc. Nice water in this regard. (Water table - see below; composition fluctuates slightly with season but within 10%-15% according to our simple tests - TDS, GH, KH, pH, ammonia, etc.)

FD: Do you constantly pump from the well ? This would be very expensive.
V: 24/7/364. Expensive yes, but we have no choice. Fish need WC. Any other way of cleaning up their water has been found either impractical or more expensive so far.

FD: So you water change 100% every 3 days?
V: 3-6 days. The larger the system, the slower the WC.

FD: This is similar to a flow through system so no filtration is needed.
V: You can't mean no biofiltration of the fish tanks is needed. But then what you mean IDK.

FD: Have you sampled soil (composition) including clay content? The soil, not water. And in several locations/depths.
V: No, never. It's 100% sand down to 3 feet. Then cap coral rock begins and its thickness is like 10-20 feet, solid coral. Florida is an old huge coral reef, is all. What's deeper IDK. Our well is 180 feet deep.

FD: I'm short of time so will email you privately next week but what I'm thinking is you could incorporate solar distillation to reduce reliance on expensive RO membranes.
V: I thought we touched on this. This way will not make us 10,000 GPD, or probably not even 1/10th of that. But I am not sure.

FD: Alternatively store water in mud ponds for cathodic reduction of magnesium & calcium - similar principle to ion resin exchange but done naturally for free. Nature ponds will also drop pH (algae photosynthesis) and boost dissolved oxygen assuming your well water is anoxic. You could run through sand settlement tanks to remove iron precipitate (becomes insoluble as dissolved oxygen increases). And reduction of water through-put will extend RO membrane life.
V: Thank you for this. I need to read up more on this to wrap my head around it. We have plenty of natural ponds but they are dirty, not mud, populated by wildlife, and go dry in the dry season. Yearly water table change is about 6 feet or more.... We could catch and store rain water too (we get a ton of rain for half a year) but the initial investment is astronomical for our pocket plus would be useless for half a year... Our volumes of 10,000 GPD (and growing as we add more tanks!) override probably any sensible alternative solution to merely buying RO membranes more often and more of them in the future.
 
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