Uaru - white spot

[Yoda1]

Hi All

About 3 weeks ago i picked up a group of 4 Uaru youngsters.
They are in my 500L tank kept at 27*c.

Ever since i have had them, they keep getting white spot.
After the first time one of them got it, i treated with medication, and it went away after a few days. But then another of the fish got it, so i treated again.
Now one has it again for a 3rd time, but i am reluctant to keep pouring medication into the tank.

Anyone have a similar experience with these?
Any advice?

Thanks
Yoda1

 

[Belly up]

The life cycle of ich, the abbreviated name of the parasite that causes the white spots is three days. Treat your tank as per the instructions on the bottle of medication and you should have success. After you cure it just be sure you get your H2o temp right when you do your water changes.

 

[nirman]

Hi All

About 3 weeks ago i picked up a group of 4 Uaru youngsters.
They are in my 500L tank kept at 27*c.

Ever since i have had them, they keep getting white spot.
After the first time one of them got it, i treated with medication, and it went away after a few days. But then another of the fish got it, so i treated again.
Now one has it again for a 3rd time, but i am reluctant to keep pouring medication into the tank.

Anyone have a similar experience with these?
Any advice?

Thanks
Yoda1

Just give a try with salt, 1 table spoon per 5 gallons... If u do water changes add salt again for new water volume..

 

[flyingdog]

be careful whitespot medication will kill your good bacteria in your filter . The resultant crash and ammonia spike will kill those young Uaru quick smart.

 

[ignatius1988]

Just ich madication and should be ok, Check water nitr/ph. I think problem was caused from the fish that you bought. Heard about adding salt but never tried it. Good luck

 

[Yoda1]

belly up - I do small water changes. So I try and keep the ph and temp relatively stable by a degree or two.

nirman - I have never used salt. Is this the aquatic tonic salt?

flyingstart - the medication that I have been using is filter safe. No worries there.

ignatius - hopefully it's just the fish getting used to the new conditions in my tank. They seem a bit better today.

 

[vulter toad]

My uaru had ick one time after getting new tankmates, what i did was raise temp as high as the heaters would go (92) and do daily large waterchanges and add aquarium salt. Be ready for infections afterward!

 

[Yoda1]

My uaru had ick one time after getting new tankmates, what i did was raise temp as high as the heaters would go (92) and do daily large waterchanges and add aquarium salt. Be ready for infections afterward!

What sort of infections?
Did yours persistently get ich??

 

[David R]

I would try treating with a different med if you've done three courses with one kind and are still having trouble with it, but make sure you finish the treatment, keep it going long after they've been completely free of spots to avoind a re-infection from any remaining tomites. Wouldn't hurt to bump the temp up another degree or two, just make sure they have enough oxygen.

 

[ryansmith83]

I treat ich with heat & salt for 7 days, then an additional 7 days of just heat. Raise the heat as high as you safely can (and increase the aeration because warm water holds less oxygen). Uaru are warm water fish anyway, preferring mid-80s Fahrenheit, so you can get up to near 90 with no issues as long as they have plenty of O2. I hear all sorts of dosage information for the salt. The sticky in MFK Disease board says 2 tsp per gallon which works out to quite a bit. I think I used a bit less, probably closer to the 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons dosage given above. I do 50 - 75% water changes every day of the seven day treatment, replacing the salt each day. I use non-iodized rock salt, sold at most grocery stores as Ice Cream or Pickling Salt. It should just say Non-Iodized rock salt. I don't think you need the Aquarium salt because it's more expensive and accomplishes the same thing as rock salt which is dirt cheap for a huge box.

Once the 7 days of salt are done, do another very large water change and leave the temp high for another week. Then you can gradually drop it back to a normal level. This has always cured ich for me. The trick is to follow any treatment through to the end, whether it's heat+salt or medication. If you stop halfway through, there's a chance it'll come right back because of the life cycle of the ich.

I've never had a strain that was resistant to heat and salt, but I guess they are probably out there.

Remember that if you have gravel or sand, decorations or driftwood, etc. then you need to be really diligent about the siphoning you do during your water changes. This is why I usually QT and treat fish in a bare bottom quarantine tank.