UV Sterilizers - Recommended?

[tanglovers]

Hi All,

We are going to be starting our 520g ray tank in the next couple months. I am accumulating the equipment now since I an buying most of it for our 520g reef tank upgrade we are doing in a couple weeks.

Anyhow, do you guys run UV sterilizers on your ray setups? How many watts are you generally running?

Rough setup equipment so far:

Acrylic 96x42x30 (L x W x H) tank with external overflow, viewable on 2 sides (front and right side)

Two ATB Flow Star 1500 Return Pumps (3000ish GPH)

Two Vortech MP40 Powerheads or Tunze 6105 Powerheads (6000ish GPH)

180g Sump with Wet Dryn etc.

If UV Sterilizers are needed, I will be using Rainbow Lifegard 40w units - I run these on my reef and saltwater breeding systems. I keep all equipment the same I can so I can have a single spare on the shelf incase of failure.

Any suggestions would be great. I am thinking either 80w or 160w if you guys feel it is needed.

Scott

 

[CrAzYNeSs]

I don't think it is necessary if you do not have a bacteria problem in your tank. If you are just starting up your tank and starting the cycle - I would advise against UV because it is indiscriminate against good and bad bacteria. Using the UV in conjunction could extend your cycling process indefinitely.

 

[Danger_Chicken]

I don't think it is necessary if you do not have a bacteria problem in your tank. If you are just starting up your tank and starting the cycle - I would advise against UV because it is indiscriminate against good and bad bacteria. Using the UV in conjunction could extend your cycling process indefinitely.

UV is indiscriminate but it wont affect your cycle. While water does contian good BB it's the media where the greater majority of it lives. There is also the flow rate (dewell time) to consider. A high flow rate will only kill free floating algea (green water), a low flow rate is needed to sterilze the water. The manufactor will usually lable the UV with the flow rates needed based on the out come you desire.

Personally I like them but don't use them because of the expense of the bulbs and the frequency they need to be replaced (6 months, $50+ ea). I think their best use is in ponds for algea control and LFS for disease control considering the amount of stock moving through the tanks. I know some people out right hate them.

 

[dookie]

I never can tell if they do anything. i say if you got very expensive rays, it won't hurt....I use them but i feel they don't really do much benefit.

 

[tanglovers]

I never can tell if they do anything. i say if you got very expensive rays, it won't hurt....I use them but i feel they don't really do much benefit.

I have a similar thought process. Do you think two 40w UVs would be enough on this system. I am planning on QT / treating fish before they go in but just want something incase somethin slips through to help keep it at bay / cure it.

 

[dookie]

well it's never so much the wattage, it's the flow rate through them that matters most and changing the bulbs at 6 month even though they still glow. Once the wavelengths change with age, they no longer do anything so it's just wasting electric (of course i don't practice what I preach). Most ray parasites are internal rather than external so UV's really don't do much in a ray tank. However, if your tank is a bare bottom, I do feel it will have some benefit. I find bare tanks less stable as the bacteria has less surface area to attach and are more apt to free floating behaviour. imho.

 

[PeteLockwood]

Most ray parasites are internal rather than external so UV's really don't do much in a ray tank.

This.

However, if your tank is a bare bottom, I do feel it will have some benefit. I find bare tanks less stable as the bacteria has less surface area to attach and are more apt to free floating behaviour. imho.

But not this - the bacteria are mostly in the filter media, which is where you need them.

 

[T1KARMANN]

i would not run a ray tank without a UV

they are not about is it big enough for the tank its all about flow rate

make sure you match the flow rate to the UV make sure you change the tubes every 6 months unless you have the Arcadia tubes which only need to be changed every year

 

[flipstylex]

it wont hurt if you have the money !

 

[Just Toby]

I agree with T1 and Danger Chicken.

I have kept Clown Loaches and Puffers for ages and not once did I have a white spot outbreak (those are notoroius fish)

I run Two Vecton TMC UV's at 25W each on 300 gals with a slow flow rate.

I was advised not to run them whilst cycling but that is because I ran a start up bacteria colony.

Even if Rays suffer from Internal Parasites more then it still make sense to help stop the thread.

I would not run without one either