UV Sterilizers

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I've been using one on the return line from my xp3 filter since december. My water has been clearer and fish appear healthier. good investment.
 
spoofsjsc;746612; said:
from what i've been reading, my understanding of things is that you pick a UV lamp wattage that would match the pump's flow. I just don't know what wattage would do well for mine. (i have a 700l/h and a 900 l/h) would i need to put 2 lamps?
What is your pump's flow rate? maybe the experts can give us some suggestions...

just buy a 25w and put it on the 900lph pump

you cant go far wrong if you get a 25w for most aplication

15w will do for pumps of 500lph and below

to tell the truth i have no idear about smaller UVs all i know is that with a 25w
you can pass upto 1700lph but less is not a problem and you should still use a 25w if your passing 1000lph throw it
 
A friend of mine gave me a 9w UV for testing purposes. is this ok for the 700lph pump? i intend to get a 25w as you suggested for a sump I'm building which will pass about 1200lph but i havnt seen one yet round here. will search some more... if i cant find one, i'll probably use another 900lph motor and apply that 9 watt thing. although I'm not so confident with that. I feel I need a higher wattage...
suggestions are most welcome.
thanks!
 
the main reason flows rate is so important with UVs are

flow rate to fast = the bactria is not in contact with the UV light to kill it
flow rate to slow = if may kill good bactria but the main reason is if the flow rate is to slow it will over heat the water
 
T1KARMANN;754996; said:
the main reason flows rate is so important with UVs are


flow rate to slow = if may kill good bactria but the main reason is if the flow rate is to slow it will over heat the water

1) there are almost no good bacteria in the water except when cycling a new tank and the uv should be off.

2) to first order the amount of heat is transfered to the water on low flow and high flow is the same...........however the overkill of uv radiation is a waste and the bulb will run slightly cooler on higher flow.

hope this helps..........
 
johnptc;755085; said:
1) there are almost no good bacteria in the water except when cycling a new tank and the uv should be off.

2) to first order the amount of heat is transfered to the water on low flow and high flow is the same...........however the overkill of uv radiation is a waste and the bulb will run slightly cooler on higher flow.

hope this helps..........

of course it not if the water is running throw a 25w uv very slow the bulb will heat the water up think about it

if water is passing throw the uv faster it has less time in the tube to heat the water up

if what you are saying is true then you are best off getting a 50w uv and pumping water throw at 2 gal per hour for max efect

i run 1700lph throw 2 x 25w uvs in paralel one after the other

i used to run just 1 25w uv but since adding the 2nd one the tank temp is much higher than before and hardly need a heater anymore

hears a picture of the way i run mine

as for this turn it on/off when you want that makes no sense as the indicators on the uv casing show every 6 months to change the bulb

if you had only turn the uv on for 3 hrs in 6 months would you still need to change the bulb i dont think so

but hay im no expert

i have been using a uv on every tank i have owned over the last 15 years but if you think you know more then fair enought

all i know is what works and what doesnt

the sizes we get in the UK are 8w,15w,25w and 30w you can get larger but i have never used anything bigger than 25w

when i set mine up this time i already had 1 x 25w so just added another as anything bigger than 25w is more than 3ft long and hard to fit in most tank cabnets the bulbs and tubes are also harder to get hold off for larger models

belive what you want they are you tanks set them up as you wish

P3120012.JPG
 
i was just fining tuning your comments.........

the water running thru a uv heats up whether its fast or slow......higher flow rates mean that the water temp doesnt rise as much but there are more gallons per hour of slightly warmed water.

on slower flow the water leaves the uv at a higher temperature but fewer gallons per hour

net result is in both cases approx 25 watts per hour removed by water flow ( less room air that is heated) for a 25 watt uv....

pic is of my 24 bulb 1200 watt uv unit for the 5000 gallon tank.in the middle of re piping




T1KARMANN;755245; said:
of course it not if the water is running throw a 25w uv very slow the bulb will heat the water up think about it

if water is passing throw the uv faster it has less time in the tube to heat the water up

if what you are saying is true then you are best off getting a 50w uv and pumping water throw at 2 gal per hour for max efect

i run 1700lph throw 2 x 25w uvs in paralel one after the other

i used to run just 1 25w uv but since adding the 2nd one the tank temp is much higher than before and hardly need a heater anymore

hears a picture of the way i run mine

as for this turn it on/off when you want that makes no sense as the indicators on the uv casing show every 6 months to change the bulb

if you had only turn the uv on for 3 hrs in 6 months would you still need to change the bulb i dont think so

but hay im no expert

i have been using a uv on every tank i have owned over the last 15 years but if you think you know more then fair enought

all i know is what works and what doesnt

the sizes we get in the UK are 8w,15w,25w and 30w you can get larger but i have never used anything bigger than 25w

when i set mine up this time i already had 1 x 25w so just added another as anything bigger than 25w is more than 3ft long and hard to fit in most tank cabnets the bulbs and tubes are also harder to get hold off for larger models

belive what you want they are you tanks set them up as you wish

MVC-001S.JPG
 
I use the Turbo Twist 6x on my 75 run off of my Eheim 2229 Wet/ Dry at 145 GPH.

Craig
 
johnptc;755373; said:
i was just fining tuning your comments.........

the water running thru a uv heats up whether its fast or slow......higher flow rates mean that the water temp doesnt rise as much but there are more gallons per hour of slightly warmed water.

on slower flow the water leaves the uv at a higher temperature but fewer gallons per hour

net result is in both cases approx 25 watts per hour removed by water flow ( less room air that is heated) for a 25 watt uv....

pic is of my 24 bulb 1200 watt uv unit for the 5000 gallon tank.in the middle of re piping

like i said know nothing about units larger than 30w and i think it will be the same for most of the members hear who will only ever need a uv of 50w max

if the unit you have has 24 bulbs that need to be changed every 6 months :eek:

money :D

the best way rather than all this slowing down the flow rate of a pump to suit the UV is to buy a uv to suit the pump

5000 gal tank that above me i know nothing

one thing i will say is on a tank the size you have its no wonder you dont have over heating problems but take my word for it on a smaller tank the over heating is a problem
 
we are both on the same page now :) :)


T1KARMANN;755617; said:
like i said know nothing about units larger than 30w and i think it will be the same for most of the members hear who will only ever need a uv of 50w max

if the unit you have has 24 bulbs that need to be changed every 6 months :eek:

money :D

the best way rather than all this slowing down the flow rate of a pump to suit the UV is to buy a uv to suit the pump

5000 gal tank that above me i know nothing

one thing i will say is on a tank the size you have its no wonder you dont have over heating problems but take my word for it on a smaller tank the over heating is a problem
 
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