Valve on Sump Drain Line

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Same concept, different valve type.
I always had trouble with getting that”just so” adjustment on my ball valves.
Finally stopped being overly cheap and used a gate valve. The cost was only a few dollars more, but the range, and ease of adjustment more than made it a worthwhile expense.
 
KaiserSousay;4198777; said:
Same concept, different valve type.
I always had trouble with getting that”just so” adjustment on my ball valves.
Finally stopped being overly cheap and used a gate valve. The cost was only a few dollars more, but the range, and ease of adjustment more than made it a worthwhile expense.

Are the IDs of the gate valves the same or do you need a bigger valve there as well?
 
Regardless whether you choose a gate valve or a ball valve it is important to remember they are not all created equal.
If you choose a "Full flow" brass ball valve(my personal choice), AKA full port or full bore, the ID of the valve in the open position is equal to the ID of the pipe threaded into it.
Most, not all, gate valves are by design "Full Flow" so look carefully at them when selecting.
As KaiserSousay pointed out they can be easier to fine tune although in my opinion it is a matter of personal preference.
If you purchase a quality brass, not PVC, ball valve you will get acceptable results.
 
dawnmarie;4199703; said:
Regardless whether you choose a gate valve or a ball valve it is important to remember they are not all created equal.
If you choose a "Full flow" brass ball valve(my personal choice), AKA full port or full bore, the ID of the valve in the open position is equal to the ID of the pipe threaded into it.
Most, not all, gate valves are by design "Full Flow" so look carefully at them when selecting.
As KaiserSousay pointed out they can be easier to fine tune although in my opinion it is a matter of personal preference.
If you purchase a quality brass, not PVC, ball valve you will get acceptable results.

I didn't see any PVC gate valves at Lowe's. Do they carry them and I just missed them or do they have them at Home Depot?

I found brass gate valves, but I can't glue them to PVC, but I suppose I could use a threaded adapter?
 
Yeah getting PVC ballvalves to operate smoothly is as easy as getting a bone back from a hungry rottweiler. Especially after a year in service.

I've spent far more time than I care to remember "missing the mark" when balancing the system. Gate valves would be more "set and forget" but no one carries PVC gate valves by me, just the guilotine type.
 
fox3;4200336; said:
Yeah getting PVC ballvalves to operate smoothly is as easy as getting a bone back from a hungry rottweiler. Especially after a year in service.

I've spent far more time than I care to remember "missing the mark" when balancing the system. Gate valves would be more "set and forget" but no one carries PVC gate valves by me, just the guilotine type.

I posted my plumbing setup. I want to glue it this weekend and get water going through it. Here is the link:

http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=334866

The one problem with the valve is that it will stress the PVC when I turn it and I don't want to break/crack bulkhead. I can hold the PVC with my other hand that I am not turning the valve with, but it will undoubtedly stress the PVC and bulkhead.
 
bjbass;4200452; said:
The one problem with the valve is that it will stress the PVC when I turn it and I don't want to break/crack bulkhead.

You can isolate the bottom of the tank and bulkhead from minor shocks by using a piece of flexible tubing for the first connection to the bulkhead.
 
Here's a link to PVC gate valves , but I'm betting you'll be happier in the long run with brass.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=24447&catid=584

If you use a brass gate valve I don't see it stessing anything. They operate pretty freely.

BTW, spending a few extra dollars for quality bulkheads is an excellent investment.
 
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