Water changes on city water?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Thanks for the input guys.

As mentioned was more looking for the method. But if you guys have all been dosing the partially drained tank before adding water that should be sufficient.

I have used Prime in the past for various things but this is the first time I've been on city water.
 
my city tap water is so ****ty and gray, i recently got a RO filter and the water is Crystal clear


I would LOVE to get an RO filter as I brew beer also and this would allow me to build my own water profiles for beer. I haven't looked into them too thoroughly but aren't RO filters rather slow?
 
Ah another brewer, shame we're not allowed to discuss it here! :lipsseale

RO filters are slow, and create 1 part RO water to 4-5 parts waste water (which is still fine to use for most things other than brewing and fishkeeping). I wouldn't bother with one unless you're keeping a reef tank, or sensitive soft-water dish (discus, altums etc) and have hard tap water.

I'd invest in a barrel large enough to hold your water-change water and a pump with a long length of hose on it. That way you can fill the barrel with tap water, dechlorinate it, use an aquarium heater to bring it up to tank temp, then pump it into the tank after you've finished your siphon. For a fairly small initial outlay it makes water changes far easier for you and easier on the fish in the long run!

Because I change about 300 gallons every other day with a city water supply that has approx 1.0-1.5mg/L chloramine, I mix my own sodium thiosulfate.

Certainly the best bang-for-buck dechlorinater!
 
Hello; Been following this thread and will offer a less popular alternative method for water change. For many years (five decades) I have not used any water conditioning chemicals at all. The last 23 years on city water. I now fill containers with tap water and allow them to sit for a week vented to the air (During warm weather mosquitoes will lay in the open container so I plug the openings with a bit of foam. I also have a six gallon water jug with a small vent that works well.) The chlorine in the tap water become inert during this period and the water can be poured directly into the tank. A second advantage is always having a source of drinking water on hand in an emergency. This must to be less expensive than the chemicals as well.

Gallon jugs that have thick walls last longer than the distilled water or milk type. Vinegar bottles and Clorox bottles are sturdy. I rinse them well. To clean them, I fill these bottles and let them sit a while and then dump the water into the washing machine. I do this several times before using them for an aquarium. You can likely find new containers somewhere that work if you do not wish to use the used ones. A disadvantage is finding a place to store the water.

The issue of water treatment chemicals other than chlorine should not be left out. I go to my local water treatment company and pick up their water quality report to check for the treatment methods. Your local water company will have the information. My company use only chlorine. Some water companies use additional chemicals such as chloramines which are reported to not become inert with sitting for a time. Your water company will list such chemicals if used. I have no experience with that chemical but it has been reported many times on fish forums that a treatment chemical is needed to deal with chloramines.

Should you find some of the water change threads of the past many will have suggested the use of water conditioning chemicals for all water, including well water. I have been storing water for changes since going on city water in two different communities over twenty years ago and the method has worked well. I had well water prior to that and only had to be aware of temperature issues.
 
As I understand, chlorine "evaporating" over time leaving the water harmless is a myth, as explained by someone on our local forum who is far more knowledgeable than I on the subject;

When you add chlorine to water you get hypochlorous acid which reacts with nitrogen compounds like ammonia,urea and the amines (in all proteins) and forms monochloramine. When you add more chlorine you get dichloramine and even more you get trichloramine. All these (and other reactions) form part of the "chlorine demand" in the water. You cannot get free available chlorine until this "chlorine demand" is satisfied. Therefore when the reaction is pushed towards trichloramine there will be virtually no monochloramine present. In some states in the US they treat the water with monochloramine (made by reacting chlorine with ammonia) because chlorine will react with other impurities in the water and form some compounds that are not so nice (such as acetone) where as monochloramine will not. Monochloramine is not as effective in treating water as chlorine which is used in NZ but is still a strong oxidising agent.
When people complain that the chlorine in a swimming pool is too strong and it is burning their eyes the problem usually is that the free available chlorine has been used up by contaminants in the water (such as urea) and this has pushed the chloramines back towards the monochloramine and this is what is burning their eyes. The problem is fixed by adding more chlorine.
When you allow water to stand or aerate it to get rid of the chlorine the chloramines all move back to monochloramine and this will react with your fish the same as an under chlorinated swimming pool will with your eyes.
Chlorine and all chloramines can be converted to more harmless chemicals with the addition of sodium thiosulphate which is the active ingredient you are buying from the petshop with dechlorinating products.
Drinking water will contain various impurites that add to the chlorine demand and will form chloramines and other compounds. Ammonia is a bi product of the reaction when adding thiosulphate to chlorinated water. Chlorine only is used to sanitize water supplies in NZ and when you add chlorine you will always get chloramines unless you use distilled water.
 
That way is very old school, didn't know anyone who knows how to use the internet was still using it

Hello; I know of a few from fish forums which confirms a use of the internet. One from Washington state. Perhaps some who use this forum will respond. Old school perhaps, but if you live long enough all of the methods currently in use will be old school. Do you plan to stop using methods of fish keeping just because they were in use some time ago. What length of time is likely to be the cutoff, 20 years? Fifty years?

I can relate to David R's post in that a technical explaination is presented. That I will try to look into. That is the sort of response more likely to convince me to change a proceedure.
 
Yes, as the hobby evolves, I will too. That's why I'm on these forums. To see what everyone else is doing and find the new cutting edge methods, science and technology that will better the hobby for my fish and i
 
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