Water changes with big tanks. Aging water a thing?

[philipraposo1982]

My current apartment building has very saturated water due to the plumbing and I must agitate / age the water for a period of time before filling my tank or the fish will definitely get stressed.

I am also moving to our first home in the early spring and will be upgrading to a much larger aquarium. I am wondering if people with large tanks ever age their water or if this is just something you don't do with big tanks.

I mean whee can you age 150g of water without having many barrels laying around or a tub.

 

[tlindsey]

My current apartment building has very saturated water due to the plumbing and I must agitate / age the water for a period of time before filling my tank or the fish will definitely get stressed.

I am also moving to our first home in the early spring and will be upgrading to a much larger aquarium. I am wondering if people with large tanks ever age their water or if this is just something you don't do with big tanks.

I mean whee can you age 150g of water without having many barrels laying around or a tub.

I rarely here or read anyone really doing that. I personally let water sit for 1 day to gas off for my Rainbow Darter 20 long. The rest of my aquariums are done from the tap the same day. Years ago I would premix a Rubbermaid Brute can for Saltwater which sat for a week before using.

 

[Gourami Swami]

You would need to have barrels laying around for sure. As tlindsey says in saltwater everyone with big tanks usually premixes their water in big "brute" cans. I've seen some interesting setups, a friend of mine has his cans in the basement, and he ran the lines up through the floor, so he pumps the water up through the floor to the tank
For fresh I run the water straight to my tank from the sink, have never had a problem with this, though your situation may be unique because of the plumbing

 

[duanes]

I scanned the Cambridge Ontario 2017, Water Quality Report.
Since the provider uses "combined Chlorine" as part of its disinfection process (I believe that is their term for Chloramine) aging the water will have little, to no effect on getting rid of chlorine.
Adding water to a sump, filter, or area near the agitation of an airstone, will help reduce gas saturation.
When in Milwaukee (almost same latitude as Cambridge) my tap water was super saturated with gases in winter, so my process was to add any new water to a sump first, as opposed to directly to tanks, in that way there was enough time and agitation to dissipate, and the the process of passing thru an impeller drove most gases out.
Just passing slowly thru a HOB filter and cascading into the tank, would do the same.
The Cambridge report also had average pH between 6.8-to 8.0,
slightly hard, and a moderate alkalinity.

 

[RD.]

I'm further north than both of you, with winter temps causing a major amount of dissolved gasses, yet even on large scale water changes (80-90%) I have always added the tap water directly to my tank. (warm mixed with cold to reach within a few degrees of tank temp) Other than a few species of fish (discus, and H. temporalis) I have never had any issue with using tap water here in the winter. The species mentioned react poorly to excessive gas, it tends to peel their slime coat off, which irritates them. My solution was to get rid of the fish, and move on. I have never known this to be an issue with SD's, or festae.

 

[philipraposo1982]

Thanks folks.

 

[NCHornet]

My water comes straight up from 260ft Artesian Spring under my home and goes right into the tank. The fish love it and it makes the best sweet tea you ever had, lol!!!!
Later
NCH

 

[fishdance]

Slow drip water change will solve your water aging issues. If chloramine level is high, use an online carbon filter. (Slow flow gives long dwell time)

 

[mattybecks]

I scanned the Cambridge Ontario 2017, Water Quality Report.
Since the provider uses "combined Chlorine" as part of its disinfection process (I believe that is their term for Chloramine) aging the water will have little, to no effect on getting rid of chlorine.
Adding water to a sump, filter, or area near the agitation of an airstone, will help reduce gas saturation.
When in Milwaukee (almost same latitude as Cambridge) my tap water was super saturated with gases in winter, so my process was to add any new water to a sump first, as opposed to directly to tanks, in that way there was enough time and agitation to dissipate, and the the process of passing thru an impeller drove most gases out.
Just passing slowly thru a HOB filter and cascading into the tank, would do the same.
The Cambridge report also had average pH between 6.8-to 8.0,
slightly hard, and a moderate alkalinity.

Just curious - does this mean you don't add any of the anti-chlorine drops into the tank whilst adding the new water? Just tap water straight?

I usually add tap water directly into my tank (I have attached a pump to the end of the siphon that sucks the water, and I usually just attached this to faucet once I have finished draining and run water back through the pump into tank, so it goes through the impeller and "sprays" into the tank.) Once or twice I have forgotten to add my anti chlorine drops but my fish don't seem to notice at all. It is really necessary using these drops?

 

[duanes]

Chloramine is much more stable than straight free chlorine, it does "not " dissipate", and although water departments can add less, because of chloramines stability (lasting residual) it doesn't go away without help.
I had chloramine in my tap water when I lived in Milwaukee (average 1-1.5 ppm) and always used a dechlorinator, like sodium thiosulfate. If I was changing 100 gallons I would dose for 100 gallons.
The churning impeller should help a lot with gas.