Water stain that won't go away....

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
DarkStorm;3631779; said:
found this on another forum. gonna give it a try (yes i tried lime away clr everything) this below makes total sense so gonna give it a go ill let ya all know.

Greetings fellow fish keepers I have good news that merits a new thread. Some of you who have been following my post know I have been having issues trying to eliminate mineral deposits, hard water lines, and hard water haze. You also know that I have tried almost everything with very limited results from vinegar to CLR, acids, even snake oil products that amounted to nothing more then corn starch and ammonia, all of those products the result of limited research. After conducting a much more thorough research I discovered (long story short) that glass has a harness on the scale of 1-9 9 being diamonds glass is 6 and requires a mineral based abrasive preferably in the form of a liquid for uniformity. Jewelers use expensive compounds that cost about $10 a stick.

I found a few folks that have used automobile heavy duty rubbing compound which contains powerful abrasives to remove layers of paint. and although the abrasives in the paste are powerful there hardness is way below 6 hardness so glass is buffed rather then scratched.

So I went out and bought a 10oz can Turtle Wax "Heavy Duty Rubbing Compound" (not regular) for $3 and took a rolled up clean cotton sock wet with purified water (important). and with a dab of compound started cleaning a small test section of my haze inside aquarium glass in strait linear motions not circles just for about 20 good strokes and after a wipe down with a clean paper towel damp with distilled water and blow dry to see if there was any change, YAHOO! My glass had a clean clear bright area where I had rubbed, surrounded by haze waiting to be removed.

It even cleaned the badly etched top pane of glass covers however because that glass was etched by mineral deposits once clean you could actually see the layers of glass that were missing sort of like how melted wax looks in flat melted layers after its hardened, only in this case it clear again.

This heavy duty rubbing compound has no smelly or irritating chemicals to gas you out only a water based paste wax with powerful abrasives designed to remove layers paint fast does not scratch the glass because of its low hardness.


interesting , any before and after pics?
 
workd 100% in about 5 mins i did the deed
ill try upload a pic when i get home the cut polish stuff is / was really the only way to get it off
 
I ended up using mcguiers cut polish medium strength, tried taking pics but the **** didnt show up on camera before an after :(
 
DarkStorm;3631779; said:
found this on another forum. gonna give it a try (yes i tried lime away clr everything) this below makes total sense so gonna give it a go ill let ya all know.

Greetings fellow fish keepers I have good news that merits a new thread. Some of you who have been following my post know I have been having issues trying to eliminate mineral deposits, hard water lines, and hard water haze. You also know that I have tried almost everything with very limited results from vinegar to CLR, acids, even snake oil products that amounted to nothing more then corn starch and ammonia, all of those products the result of limited research. After conducting a much more thorough research I discovered (long story short) that glass has a harness on the scale of 1-9 9 being diamonds glass is 6 and requires a mineral based abrasive preferably in the form of a liquid for uniformity. Jewelers use expensive compounds that cost about $10 a stick.

I found a few folks that have used automobile heavy duty rubbing compound which contains powerful abrasives to remove layers of paint. and although the abrasives in the paste are powerful there hardness is way below 6 hardness so glass is buffed rather then scratched.

So I went out and bought a 10oz can Turtle Wax "Heavy Duty Rubbing Compound" (not regular) for $3 and took a rolled up clean cotton sock wet with purified water (important). and with a dab of compound started cleaning a small test section of my haze inside aquarium glass in strait linear motions not circles just for about 20 good strokes and after a wipe down with a clean paper towel damp with distilled water and blow dry to see if there was any change, YAHOO! My glass had a clean clear bright area where I had rubbed, surrounded by haze waiting to be removed.

It even cleaned the badly etched top pane of glass covers however because that glass was etched by mineral deposits once clean you could actually see the layers of glass that were missing sort of like how melted wax looks in flat melted layers after its hardened, only in this case it clear again.

This heavy duty rubbing compound has no smelly or irritating chemicals to gas you out only a water based paste wax with powerful abrasives designed to remove layers paint fast does not scratch the glass because of its low hardness.
that's an interesting idea. auto wax will buff out scratches on a car. it might just work. i've used it on my cars and it will fill in superficial scratches. makes sense . . . because this guy has tried almost everything that's made to REMOVE. why not try something that uses anohter methodology?
 
I was going to suggest old school rubbing compound just like you used, but rubbed in with 000 (3 "ought") or 2 ought steel wool. Works wonders on old windsheilds. Turned my 1963 Chevy's original windshield to like new condition.
 
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