*WET/DRY FOR 600G IDEA*

[mcox3]

So I started drawing up sketches of how I want my 600g filtered.

Filter will be constructed of Plywood. Still dont know how I want to seal it, considering all options.

I want to maximize biofiltration so I decided to go with 2 sections instead of 1LG one. Reason being, I'm affraid that if with a single large one, the water wont reach the bioballs/scrubbies on the far end.

This time, I also made sure the biofiltration is not submerged

Still deciding on a pump... as of right now i'm thinking 2 Quiet One pumps... maybe 2 of the 9000's or 2 of the 6000's. We'll have to see what is availiable when the time comes. An external pump is also an option.

Feel free to make suggestions and ask questions. I think the picture is pretty much self explanatory. Heaters are represented by the red bars.

 

[RBE17]

This time, I also made sure the biofiltration is not submerged

Why is that a good thing? I've been reading pond forums for the last 18 months and most of their bio is submerged. Why should it be different w/ an aquarium? I'm a little confused.

Thanks,


Steve.

 

[js302]

Why is that a good thing? I've been reading pond forums for the last 18 months and most of their bio is submerged. Why should it be different w/ an aquarium? I'm a little confused.

Thanks,


Steve.

something about exposing media to more atmospheric O2 improves bb capabilities.
my fx5 is great for mechanical (i put a purigen bag in there too) and my water is crystal clear.
i have a wet dry eheim drip canister which is good too but i still credit my fx5 far more filtration of all kinds.

 

[mcox3]

something about exposing media to more atmospheric O2 improves beneficial bacteria capabilities.

From what I understand, thats exactly right.

 

[will-kib1]

exposing the filter media to air increases the bacterial action it also increase the oxygen concentration of the water returnig to the tank filters like canister and fluidised bed sand fiters have very low oxygen concetration in there return water .pond filters tend to have submerged media because they tend to have more room availble for more media and they olso run at much lower stocking levels per gallon

 

[will-kib1]

looks like areally good design good idea to split the media in two you will get much better water distrubution that way also you will probably have to to lie the heaters on the bottom due to the low water level in the sump .also consider 50micon filter bags for prefilter 100 micron or higher tend to block really fast

 

[mcox3]

looks like areally good design good idea to split the media in two you will get much better water distrubution that way also you will probably have to to lie the heaters on the bottom due to the low water level in the sump .also consider 50micon filter bags for prefilter 100 micron or higher tend to block really fast

Thanks bud...

The water level will be high enough for the heaters to stand vertical because of the height of the first baffle. I will make it wide enough for the heater to lay flat tho. I'll try both ways.

I was thinking I could do something really coarse in the first chambers and increase to a really fine filter floss in the last chamber. I still need to look into the different types of filter floss.

 

[eh1421]

kinda like the one i built for my 180





i used epoxy paint to seal mine
hope this helps

mike

 

[RBE17]

Thanks everyone!!! That makes sense. In the ponding world they keep the bio media submerged, but sometimes they are moving beds. In addition, most of the bottom drains are aerated and there are a lot of tickle tower and bakki showers for degassing.

Thanks,


Steve.

 

[Nic]

get a sheet of FRP from home dopey or lowes that would be great for sealing the wood