What brand of UV filters would you recommend

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
kamikaziechameleon said:
Is this your gretch filter? I think the brand was bought up and relabled:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4393+19643&pcatid=19643

This is what gave me that idea:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6CG1yHk4As
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Yes thats what i run and its been absolutly reliable and the pre filter sponger is 5" tall and 2" wide and it actually catches a ton of waste but maintains a stable gph. I replace my bulbs every year and i can provide the link, very cheap good!!

Plus the outake is 180° adjustable and i use to use mine as a powerhead

U wont regret it!
 
Id go with a good inline model to connect between ur sump/wetdry/canister. Maybe 2X 20watt+uvc's. Look at the link i gave a while back and itll recomened a specific brand. But remember uvc,quartz,long exposure!
 
kamikaziechameleon said:
Ok, from what I've seen I need to have a good quartz sleeved UVC lamp that has been tested to kill parasites. Issue being these characteristics are hard to find since all UV light brands I look at list next to no info. Just wattage and projected flow rates.

To the more technically inclined I could really use a solid specific recommendation for a UV filter to kill everything at 400 GPH and 200 GPH for QT tanks. I could also go for a good recommendation for a UV filter for a planted tank to remove algae at a flow of 400 GPH.
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Okay. I ran the numbers for a 25W UV that I have the dimensions for. Its a T5 style bulb with quartz sleeve. Flow is 500gph. Result is 19mJ/cm^2 which it alright for clearing cloudy water but ideally you want 50mJ/cm^2 for parasites. So I would not recommend this unit for a tank greater than 200g. 500gph is 2.5x 200g therefore 2.5 x 19mJ/cm^2 is 47.5mJ/cm^2 (close enough to 50mJ/cm^2).
Notice from the graph that the UV intensity drops a lot as you move away from the sleeve. This is why I stress a good UV has a sleeve close to the lamp.
IMG_1064.JPG

IMG_1064.JPG
 
wareagle12 said:
I think somone stated it before a good uv filter n-e-e-d-s a slow flow
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yes and no.

Slow flow in a monster tank will take for ever and sometime bad because it will not pull the parasite or algae into the chamber.

I would consider the following in picking a UV:
Tank size?
Water circulation (flow rate) required for the tank size and stock?
With the flow rate determined, the wattage needed can be calculated to generate a dose of 50mJ/cm^2.

Many factors contribute to wattage needed. You can use a lower wattage but chamber volume must increase to allow dwell time. Or multiple bulbs can be used.

Flow does not determine a good UV. Chamber material and quartz sleeve are more the determining factors of a quality UV.
 
kendragon said:
yes and no.

Slow flow in a monster tank will take for ever and sometime bad because it will not pull the parasite or algae into the chamber.

I would consider the following in picking a UV:
Tank size?
Water circulation (flow rate) required for the tank size and stock?
With the flow rate determined, the wattage needed can be calculated to generate a dose of 50mJ/cm^2.

Many factors contribute to wattage needed. You can use a lower wattage but chamber volume must increase to allow dwell time. Or multiple bulbs can be used.

Flow does not determine a good UV. Chamber material and quartz sleeve are more the determining factors of a quality UV.
Click to expand...

Ive said this 2X atleast on this thread...
 
kendragon said:
Okay. I ran the numbers for a 25W UV that I have the dimensions for. Its a T5 style bulb with quartz sleeve. Flow is 500gph. Result is 19mJ/cm^2 which it alright for clearing cloudy water but ideally you want 50mJ/cm^2 for parasites. So I would not recommend this unit for a tank greater than 200g. 500gph is 2.5x 200g therefore 2.5 x 19mJ/cm^2 is 47.5mJ/cm^2 (close enough to 50mJ/cm^2).
Notice from the graph that the UV intensity drops a lot as you move away from the sleeve. This is why I stress a good UV has a sleeve close to the lamp.
View attachment 750896
Click to expand...

I understand this the issue is how can I apply this to any of the other brands on the market? The info needed for these calculations are totally absent from the internet.
 
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