What brand of UV filters would you recommend

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Am I wrong to assume that Lowering the flow and aquarium volume would negatively effect the effectiveness of such a UV filter? I would like to run such a UV filter on a 75 gallon tank with a flow of 300 GPH approximately. If you say its good for 500 GPH at 200 gallons, would changing the total System volume to 100 gallons allow an increase in flow? I'm just ball parking here and trying to understand. I figure I might as well get the one you have been standing by it seems you have the best info to inform my purchase.

As me and my friend wrap up my super system construction in my basement I'll finally be able to build my QT setups. UV is very important to me as medicating is a huge PITA and doesn't have a finite impact and can be horrible for fish. I'd like to use a combo of UV, Temperature, Salt, and Epsom or metro depending to flush the fishes systems. This is manageable on a time and cost basis and works with most every animal. Even if a fish is cold water only, hates salt, and is really delicate so won't tolerate metro, the UV combo'd with Epsom salted food will cover most all bases. I have lost too much money to disease to not do a good QT setup. I've probably lost thousands in fish over my time in the hobby. If I spend 2,000 setting up 4 decent QT tanks in the next year it will be money well spent, I've lost that much in fish in the last 3 years to disease that could have been stopped with a good QT setup.
 
How about the life guard UV, its cheapest per wat inline solution:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4393+3666&pcatid=3666

I like Lifeguard Aquatics UV Sterilizers. We've run a 40W on our 300 gallon tank for over six years. Like this brand so much, I'm going with two 120W UV sterilizers on my big set up. Each unit is basically three 40W UVs in line.
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So far to kill parasites this is the only thing that has been recommended.

http://wlimproducts.com/index.php?o...v&catid=9:ultraviolet-sterilizer-uv&Itemid=23

I think you are saying the 25 watt unit would treat a 75 or 90 gallon tank at 300-400 gph but I'm not really sure.


If you read this article,
http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html

For Level Two Sterilization (for parasites and stubborn viruses) you need a turnover rate of 4 times an hour at 8 gph/Watt.

For Level One Sterilization (bacteria, some viruses) most common aquarium application: you need a turnover rate of 1.5 times/hr at 20 g/hr/Watt.

For Level Two Sterilization on a 90 gallon tank: turnover rate = 360 gallons/hr. You divide that by 8 gph/Watt = 45 Watts needed for a flow rate of 360 gph on a 90 gallon tank.

For Level One Sterilization on a 90 gallon tank: turnover rate = 135 gph. Divide it by 20 gph/Watt = 6.75 Watts at 135 gph

The flow rate is the critical factor. If you want Level One Sterilization at a flow rate of 400 gph, you will need a bigger UV sterilizer. The faster the flow rate, the more wattage you will need to accomplish the same objective. You would theoretically need 20 Watts to accomplish the same thing at 400 gph, as opposed to 6.75 W at 135 gph.

Keep in mind several things:
1) the light bulb/quartz sleeve (if it has one) needs to be replaced every six months or more depending on the brand. If you price the bulbs and quartz sleeves, they are almost as much as the UV sterilizer itself.

2) The maximum recommended flow rate for each UV sterilizer is usually at clarifying level, not Level One or Level Two sterilization.

I'm a believer in UV sterilization..for me, it's peace of mind.
 
Nice thread going here! I am no UV nut but over here they only talk about 2 brands and looking at getting 1 of the 2 for the same reason you want it multi tank sharing sump. not sure if you can get these in the states, I am not even sure how good they are as none of this UV talk makes sense to me, this is just judging by the feedback i have read on them.

http://www.aquariumproducts.com.au/catalogue_products.php?prodID=3698&catID=51

http://www.aquariumproducts.com.au/catalogue_products.php?prodID=4354&catID=51
 
Nice thread going here! I am no UV nut but over here they only talk about 2 brands and looking at getting 1 of the 2 for the same reason you want it multi tank sharing sump. not sure if you can get these in the states, I am not even sure how good they are as none of this UV talk makes sense to me, this is just judging by the feedback i have read on them.

http://www.aquariumproducts.com.au/catalogue_products.php?prodID=3698&catID=51

http://www.aquariumproducts.com.au/catalogue_products.php?prodID=4354&catID=51

Just sold a brand new 25W Laguna Power Clear for $50 in the for sale forum. Your link shows the 55W for $479. Someone got a good deal.
 
Thats the difference between aussie and states =( you pay 200 for a FX5 we pay 400-500 etc everything has a crazy mark up here, they tell us its because we get paid more per the hour and have a higher currency then everyone else. technology is even worse.

seeing as you used one are they any good? lol
 
Thats the difference between aussie and states =( you pay 200 for a FX5 we pay 400-500 etc everything has a crazy mark up here, they tell us its because we get paid more per the hour and have a higher currency then everyone else. technology is even worse.

seeing as you used one are they any good? lol

I do not use Laguna. They were surplus from a fish store that closed. Had to unload everything. The Unit I sold for $50 had a price tag on the box for $288.
I design and analyze UV for wlimproducts. As I mention over and over again, chart data is only an estimate for size and effectiveness. For many that is good enough but for me I like to know exactly what I'm installing especially if you're using it for more than water clarity.
 
Please let us know UV you chose kamikazie, I might just pull a sneaky and get the same one, I really cant wrap my head around any of this lol.

More I read harder it gets, One site states that in order to kill any of the real bad stuff you need a UV that is 70W+ in strength as they can handle a lower UV strength but all the higher wattage uvs are for ponds and from what I gathered here pond UVs are no good for anything but algae? did I miss something??
 
More I read harder it gets, One site states that in order to kill any of the real bad stuff you need a UV that is 70W+ in strength as they can handle a lower UV strength but all the higher wattage uvs are for ponds and from what I gathered here pond UVs are no good for anything but algae? did I miss something??

Actually the one UV filter that kendragon keeps recommending is a pond UV filter :P I agree it is all quite allot to understand lots of variables etc. I'm excited to learn this is probably among the most challenging concepts I've tried to wrap my mind around in a long time.
 
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